Common Ford Ranger Questions, Problems & Their Fixes

Initially, the Ford Ranger was the top trim package of the 1967 F-Series pickup. But it became its line from 1982 to replace the F-100 and Courier as Ford’s compact truck model until its hiatus in 2011. Ford then revived the Ranger as a mid-sized pickup truck in 2018. Despite its production break, the Ford Ranger rates are high on its reliability tests.

Unfortunately, there are several issues with the Ford Ranger. Some model years also present more issues or more severe problems than others. Please read our article below as we answer commonly-asked Ford Ranger questions and discuss troubleshooting tips for issues reported by most Ford Ranger owners.

How to program a Ford Ranger key with only one key

Ford Ranger keys are transponder keys with a microchip that uses radio waves to transfer a unique code to your vehicle’s ignition system. Your car will respond to this specific coded key. Any Ford Ranger key without the programmed microchip will not function.

Typically, reprogramming a new Ford Ranger key will require the two original keys with the truck. However, you will need unique keys like the KeylessOption transponder key to use one key for programming. You can program a replacement key for a current generation (2007-current), Ford Ranger, at home using the instructions below.

Put your master key into the ignition and turn it on for about five seconds. After five seconds, turn your key to the OFF position.
Insert the new KeylessOption key you want to program into your ignition and turn it to the ON position.
Observe the security light on your dashboard; it should turn on for about four seconds before going off. The light indicates the successful programming of your new Ford Ranger key.

If you do not have a KeylessOption key, you can still reprogram the duplicate key using a programming kit. The Simple Key programming kit comes with a duplicate key and a programmer.

Take the new key that comes with the kit to a locksmith to cut the key blade.
Plug the extension cable into the OBDII port near your gas and brake pedal to connect with your vehicle’s computer.
Find your vehicle’s make, model, and year in the Simple Key manual.
Then turn the EX installer to the position of your vehicle’s make, model, and year. Try the primary position first if your Ford Ranger comes with more than one dial position. If that doesn’t work, use the alternate dial position for your vehicle.
When you’re ready to start programming, remove the seal on the programmer. Once you plug the programmer into your vehicle, it will only pair keys for that particular vehicle.
It’s important to know that programming a Ford Ranger key with only one key will require long battery life. Therefore, ensure your vehicle battery is capable before the programming process.
Insert the new unprogrammed key into the vehicle’s ignition and turn it on without starting the engine.
Plug the programmer into the OBDII port and then push the button at the bottom of the programmer. You will hear a beep to indicate programming has started.
Set a timer for 10 minutes and wait.
After successfully programming the new key, you will hear the locks turn and a tone from the programmer.
Turn off the key on the ignition and unplug the programmer.
Remove the key from the ignition and try starting the vehicle.

How to bleed a clutch on a Ford Ranger

Bleeding air out of the clutch is essential as it may cause hard shifting or prevent the clutch from disengaging. Air enters the system if the fluid level drops so low that air will draw into the clutch master cylinder. Air can also enter the system after changing the clutch line, clutch master cylinder, or clutch slave cylinder. Note that you will need a helper to perform this procedure correctly. Here’s how to properly bleed the clutch on your Ford Ranger truck.

Things you’ll need

Carjack
7mm wrench
Brake fluid
Clear rubber hose
Drain pan

Instructions

Lift your Ford Ranger about six inches off the ground with a jack to make bleeding the clutch easier. Choke the rear wheels and apply the parking brake for safety.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Find the clutch master cylinder on the driver’s side of the engine compartment against the firewall. Then remove the clutch master cylinder cap and diaphragm.
Locate the slave cylinder and slave cylinder bleed screw under the car, inside the transmission bell housing.
Take out the dust cap from the bleeder valve, connect a clear plastic hose over the valve, and then use a box-end wrench to open the bleed screw. Leave the bleed screw loose until a steady stream of brake fluid drains out, then tighten the bleed screw. This process allows the brake fluid to flow from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the clutch slave cylinder, and out.
Note: Do not allow the fluid level to drop too low in the clutch master cylinder. Otherwise, air will re-enter the hydraulic line. Check the fluid level periodically to ensure it stays between the upper and lower marks on the reservoir tank.
Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal to push the fluid out. When the clutch is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.
Repeat the previous step, waiting two seconds each time you release the pedal until you don’t see any air bubbles coming out through the clear plastic hose. The clutch pedal should also feel a little harder to press down than before, then close the bleeder valve.
Load up the fluid reservoir to the top with DOT 3 brake fluid. It is best to use a new can to avoid introducing dirt particles or another fluid into the clutch line.
Return the dust cap onto the bleeder valve, lower your Ford Ranger and reconnect the negative battery cable.
Test the clutch system. If the clutch pedal feels soft and mushy, you must repeat the bleeding process until all the air comes out of the system.

Alternative technique: Some Ford Ranger users swear by bleeding the clutch through the top of the master cylinder rather than the bottom by pumping the clutch pedal. However, this process will not apply to Ford Ranger models with bleeders with a tapered hex bolt with a hole.

Use the turkey baster to siphon brake fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir located at the top of the master cylinder.
Fill a pump-style oil can with brake fluid and attach a 3mm wide rubber hose to the oil can opening.
Pump the flex line with the brake fluid to remove all the air. It should take about one minute to remove all the air.
Use the wrench to open the bleeder valve located on the internal cylinder. Then quickly attach the flex line to the valve to avoid adding air into the clutch system.
Pump the can to push the brake fluid up the clutch line. Then stop pumping when you stop seeing bubbles coming out of the brake fluid reservoir.
Close the bleeder valve and detach the flex line from the bleeder.

What is the lug pattern on a Ford Ranger?

The wheel lug pattern, bolt pattern, or Pitch Circle Diameter(PCD) is the layout of the mounting holes. We express the lug pattern as the number of lugs by the diameter of the imaginary circle formed by the center of the lugs. The bolt pattern should always match the pattern on the axle hub. Note that even a slight difference will cause the wheel to be off-center. This will cause excessive vibration while driving. Below is a table that shows the lug pattern of all Ford Ranger model years.

Trim level	Model years	Lug/ bolt pattern
2.3 Eco Boost	2019-2022	6×139.7 (6×5.5)
2.2D III Facelift	2015-2021	6×139.7 (6×5.5)
2.0 EcoBlue	2015-2021	6×139.7 (6×5.5)
2.3i IV	2019-2020	6×139.7 (6×5.5)
3.2 D III Restyling	2017-2019	6×139.7 (6×5.5)
2.2 TDCi III Facelift	2011-2015	6×139.7 (6×5.5)
2.2 TDCi 130 III Restyling	2015-2018	6×139.7 (6×5.5)
2.2 TDCi 160 III Restyling	2015-2018	6×139.7 (6×5.5)
2.5i III Facelift	2011-2016	6×139.7 (6×5.5)
3.2 TDCi III Facelift	2011-2016	6×139.7 (6×5.5)
2.3 II Facelift	2001-2012	5×114.3 (5×4.5)
4.0 II Facelift	2001-2012	5×114.3 (5×4.5)
2.5 TDCi 2WD II Restyling	2010-2011	6×139.7 (6×5.5)
2.5 TDCi 4WD II Restyling	2010-2011	6×139.7 (6×5.5)
3.0 TDCi 4WD II Restyling	2010-2011	6×139.7 (6×5.5)
3.0 II Facelift	1999-2012	5×114.3 (5×4.5)
2.3 4WD I Facelift	1989-1992	5×114.3 (5×4.5)
2.9 2WD I Facelift	1989-1992	5×114.3 (5×4.5)
4.0 4WD I Facelift	1989-1992	5×114.3 (5×4.5)
2.0 4WD I	1982-1988	5×114.3 (5×4.5)
2.2D 2WD I	1982-1988	5×114.3 (5×4.5)
2.3 2WD I	1982-1988	5×114.3 (5×4.5)
2.3 4WD I	1982-1988	5×114.3 (5×4.5)
2.9 4WD I	1982-1988	5×114.3 (5×4.5)
2.0 2WD I	1983-1988	5×114.3 (5×4.5)

How much can a Ford Ranger tow?

The Ford Ranger towing capacity is 7,500 pounds, with either the 4×2 or the 4×4 configuration. We recommend choosing the SuperCab version for its excellent towing capabilities and adding the Trailer Tow package for improved suspension, cooling, and sturdy hitches. Due to its powerful engine and short wheelbase, the Ford Ranger can tow anything from bike trailers and jet skis to teardrops and utility trailers across all trim levels.

However, all Ford Rangers can only pull a maximum of 3,500 pounds without the tow package.

What is included in the Ford Ranger tow package?

The Ford Ranger has a tow package that increases your vehicle’s towing capacity from 3,500 pounds to 7,500 pounds. The Ford Ranger factory tow package includes; a 7-wire harness and 4-/7-pin connector, and a hitch receiver.

The Ford Ranger tow packages also feature significant Smart and electronic upgrades such as:

Dynamic Hitch Assist feature that displays a dotted line on the screen to facilitate backing-up the trailer by bending in simultaneously with the direction the truck turns.
Trailer Sway Control automatically sets the brakes when the trailer sways. The brake is minimal and carefully calculated by the vehicle’s computer.
BLIS Blind Spot Information System is a safety feature that uses radar sensors to monitor your blind spots for you and alerts you when another vehicle or object is in your blind spot.
Tow and haul mode capabilities respond to your steering movements and optimize your shift points. It gives smoother steering at higher speeds and less steering wheel rotation at lower speeds, helping you safely maneuver the truck and trailer. In addition, when you maneuver the Ranger abruptly, it prevents the vehicle from swerving aggressively.

The contents of the tow package will vary depending on model year, trim, and powertrain.

How many catalytic converters are in a Ford Ranger

The Ford Ranger trucks come with two inline catalytic converters- one at the front end and the other at the vehicle’s back end. This dual system makes the vehicle’s emission system more rigorous regarding pollution control standards.

The front-end catalytic converter converts the carbon monoxide and unburnt hydrocarbons to carbon dioxide and hydrogen gas through an oxidation reaction. It then transforms nitrogen oxides into nitrogen gas through a reduction reaction. The front-end cat converter supports the set of exhaustion pipes running on the front side of the Ford Ranger.

The back-end catalytic converter performs the same job as the front-end cat converter while also supporting the exhaust pipes running through the backside of the Ford Ranger.

How many miles does a Ford Ranger last?

Ford Rangers are highly reliable cars. With proper maintenance, regular inspection, and servicing, they can last for over 300,000 miles. However, if you miss out on maintenance work, even an oil change can reduce the chances of your Ford Ranger remaining reliable for long.

On the other hand, some Ranger model years are better than others, therefore, have longer mileage. According to CarComplaints.com, the 2002 Ranger model year was the worse because of mechanical problems at lower mileage and higher repair costs. Earlier ranger models have issues with the timing chain and transmission, while earlier models have issues with the transmission and Turbo engine. Also, the overall worst problem with the Ford Ranger is the engine problem occurring at 37,000 miles.

How to replace the neutral safety switch in a Ford Ranger

The neutral safety switch is in vehicles with transaxle or automatic transmission and prevents the car from starting when set in any gear position other than Neutral or Park. The neutral safety switch is on the left-hand side of the transmission and can also monitor gear selection and reverse light feedback data for the vehicle’s ECU. Unfortunately, the neutral safety switch deteriorates as the vehicle ages and will need immediate replacing.

A defective neutral safety switch could cause irreversible damage to your Ford Ranger engine and transmission. You should be on the lookout for symptoms of a bad neutral safety switch such as:

Check Engine Light turns on after ignition
The vehicle cranks in any gear
No crank when in Park and Neutral.

Follow the instructions below to replace the neutral safety switch in your Ford Ranger.

Things you’ll need

Replacement neutral safety switch
10mm wrench or 10mm socket with ratchet
12mm wrench or 12mm socket with ratchet
Pliers
Flathead screwdriver
Floor jack and jack stands

Instructions

Park the vehicle, set the emergency brake, and place the car in Park.
Raise the front of the Ranger and secure it with jack stands.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and position the end of the cable away from the battery terminal.
From underneath a rear-wheel-drive vehicle or under the hood on a front-wheel-drive car, locate the neutral safety switch with a plastic cover. The neutral safety switch is mounted to the transmission (or transaxle) by two or three 10mm or 12mm bolts. The shifter cable is attached to the switch, and it has a single electrical connector plugged into it.
Carefully unplug the electrical connector from the switch as they become brittle over time.
Disconnect the shifter cable from the pin extruding transmission and through the neutral safety switch.
Mark the slot of the neutral safety switch. Then unscrew the bolts holding the switch to the transmission and remove it.
Install the new neutral safety switch and replace all the other components in reverse order.
Reconnect the negative battery cable and test the replacement by placing your Ford Ranger on Park or neutral mode.

Ford Ranger AC compressor clutch does not engage.

The AC compressor clutch in your Ford Ranger converts energy from the engine and delivers it to the compressor. The clutch should engage and start spinning to transfer the power. The compressor clutch also maintains the AC system. The most common sign of a bad AC compressor clutch is an AC system that works intermittently or doesn’t work at all.

You may also notice clunk noises coming from the engine when the clutch engages and disengages. Here’s how to diagnose and manually engage a failing AC compressor clutch.

Locate the AC compressor clutch in front of the compressor, which is at the front of the engine where there are other belt-driven accessories.
Inspect the compressor clutch and look for discoloration or a burnt area. The clutch disc starts melting when the heat becomes intense and leaves a rusty color. When you see the rusty color around the clutch, replace the entire compressor.
Low coolant levels are another common reason the AC compressor clutch is not engaging. The AC has sensors that measure pressure. If the pressure is off, the AC compressor will not switch on. Use an AC diagnostic gauge to measure how much the pressure is in your system. Adding refrigerant requires understanding the appropriate pressure your Ford Ranger AC system needs. If you suspect leaking, have a mechanic evacuate the AC system, inspect it for holes, repair it, and refill it with refrigerant.
If the clutch has no physical damage, you can try jumping it. First, examine the oil level in the compressor and refill the oil if it is below normal levels. Next, unplug the compressor connector and install a jumper connector to the side of the wire connector attached to the compressor. Then connect the other end of the jumper cable to the positive battery terminal to supply voltage to the compressor clutch and allow it to engage manually. If the electromagnet is good, the clutch will kick start. If jump-starting doesn’t work, a defective magnet in the compressor requires a replacement.
If the compressor has broken, you have to replace the entire compressor unit. A delay in replacing the compressor clutch will cause severe damage to the AC system and engine.

Ford Ranger clutch is not engaging

Several Ford Ranger owners have complained about experiencing several clutch problems. For example, when the clutch doesn’t engage fully or slips under heavy load on a manual system, it indicates a worn-out friction disc, a loose pressure plate, or problems with the release lever, release bearing, shift lever assembly, or control cable.

If your Ford Ranger uses a hydraulic system, clutch failure is a sign of low fluid level or problems with the master or slave cylinder.

Clutch fluid leak

If you feel immediate slippage with no previous warning or feel spongy when depressing the clutch. Check the clutch fluid level in the master cylinder, and if the fluid is low, you need to refill the clutch fluid. Inspect the rear of the master cylinder where the clutch pedal rod connects to the master cylinder for signs of leaking. If it is leaking, you will have to replace it.

Check the slave cylinder for leaks at the dust boot, and you will need to replace it too.

Clutch disc failure

The clutch disc wears out from normal usage, making the clutch slip and preventing engine power from transferring through the transmission. The lining of the disc can also come off, and the springs get weaker and do not allow the clutch to engage. In either case, you need to replace the clutch.

Pilot bearing lock-up

The pilot bearing located at the back of the crankshaft supports the transmission’s input shaft. When the bearing locks up, it will spin the input shaft continuously and prevent the transmission from going into gear. You should remove the transmission and replace the pilot bearing to get your clutch working.

Ford Ranger dash lights are not working.

If your Ford Ranger dashboard lights stay off, are dim, or flickering, below are some reasons for the problem and how to fix it.

Dim dashboard lights

The most common cause for dim dash lights is the dimmer switch. This switch or button allows you to customize the dash light brightness. Unfortunately, you may have accidentally pressed a dimmer switch causing the dash lights to dim too low. The solution is to adjust the switch to your desired brightness.

The dash lights are completely off.

If the dash is entirely dark, there is likely an electrical issue. Check the fuse that lights the dashboard and check if it is blown or burnt, and replace it if necessary. The fuse may continue blowing off if there is an underlying issue causing a power surge. You will need to contact an automobile electrician to diagnose and fix the problem.

If the fuse hasn’t blown, wiring issues such as broken wires or loose connections can cause the dash lights to go off.

Flickering dash lights

There is likely an issue with the alternator if your dash lights are flickering. Other than recharging the battery, the alternator controls the running of your vehicle’s electrical components. If the alternator becomes faulty, it prevents a steady power supply to all components. The best solution is to take your Ford Ranger to a service center to fix the alternator.

Ford Ranger temperature gauge is not working

The temperature gauge in your Ford Ranger is an essential component. It works with a sensor to send electrical signals through the vehicle’s computer corresponding to the specific coolant temperature to display the accurate temperature reading on your dashboard. It allows you to know the temperature of the engine. If the temperature stops working, you will never know when the engine is overheating. Below are more of the most common causes of your Ford Ranger temperature gauge not working.

Faulty engine coolant temperature sensor

The coolant temperature sensor’s job is to keep track of the coolant temperature and send the data to the gauge. Locate the coolant temperature sensor near the thermostat housing on the front right passenger side of the engine. The most likely signs of a bad sensor are; increased fuel consumption, black smoke coming from the engine when accelerating, and an overheating engine.

To test the coolant temperature sensor:

First, use a multimeter to test the cold engine.
Then let the engine run for two minutes, check the multimeter reading as the engine runs.
You should have a difference of more than 200 ohms between a cold and warm engine. If the difference is less than 200 ohms, the sensor is defective and needs replacing.

Broken wires

Any wiring problems between the sensor and the ECU or between the gauge and the ECU could prevent signal transfer.

Check the sensor wires to the gauge or measure the voltage from the gauge connector. Check for broken wires using a multimeter from all directions and then have a mechanic fix the wiring.

Faulty gauge

The other problem could be a defective temperature gauge or instrument cluster. Some Ford Ranger models have temperature gauges integrated with the instrument cluster. Therefore if the entire cluster is faulty or has wiring issues, the gauge will not work. If you suspect a broken gauge or cluster, call in a mechanic for diagnosis and repairs.

Corroded plug connectors

Inspect the plug connectors to the temperature gauge. Clean and spray the sensor connectors, ECU. Connector and cluster connector with electronic spray to remove the dust and dirt. If corrosion is present, there is likely to be a problem with the connector sealings. Check the sealing condition and if they have worn out, replace them.

Faulty thermostat

The thermostat in your Ford Ranger controls the flow of the coolant through the radiator. If the thermostat becomes stuck open, too much coolant flows through, and the temperature might not reach the optimal levels. If you accelerate fast enough, a bad thermostat will often cause the temperature to go up from the minimum mark. Therefore if you see the gauge go up slowly, the thermostat is probably broken and needs replacing.

Air in the cooling system

If there is an air bubble at the sensor, it can cause the gauge to stay off. You will also notice a fluctuating coolant temperature gauge. Try bleeding your coolant system to push the air out and allow the sensor to work sufficiently.

Ford Ranger blower motor not working

The blower motor is the device that runs the fan in the heating and air conditioning system in your Ford Ranger. If there is little air blowing from the vents, there is likely a problem with the blower motor, a switch, or a blower resistor. There are a few factors why your Ford Ranger blower motor stops working.

Failed motor

If the blower motor is not working, you should test it first. Use a multimeter to test the voltage at the blower motor when it’s running. If the voltage is at least 4-6 volts at low speed and 12 volts at high speed, but the motor isn’t running, then the motor is defective or jammed. Sometimes debris, dirt, and pieces of a ripped cabin filter can jam the blow motor blade and prevent it from turning. If the blower motor is bad, you’ll need to replace it.

If there is no voltage at the motor, test the entire blower motor circuit, starting from the fuse.

Bad fuse and relays

The most common reason the blower motor is not running is that a power surge may have blown a fuse. The blower motor fuse and the HVAC controller fuse burning out can stop the blower motor from functioning. Locate both fuses in the fuse box and check for broken filaments or burnt signs. If both or either fuse has blown, you should replace it.

If the fuses have not blown, check for bad relays. The relays are bigger fuses for low speed and high speed. Although rare, low-speed and high-speed relays can blow out and stop the blower motor. Check if the relays have gone bad and replace them if necessary.

Poor ground connection

A bad ground connection is another reason your blower motor is not working. Test this by running a fused jumper from the battery to the power side of the motor and then attaching a temporary grounding jumper to the other motor terminal. This gives a grounding for the blower motor, and it should run at high speed. If it does, then the issue is the motor was not correctly grounded.

The best solution is finding a grounding point for the motor, cleaning it, and connecting it.

An alternative way to test the grounding connection is to disconnect the electrical connector at the blower motor and then connect a multimeter to the motor. Turn your car key to the run position and ensure the voltage is 12 volts. If you have a reading, connect one lead to the motor’s power terminal and the other to the ground. This will indicate if you have a good grounding. If it is good and the motor still doesn’t work, you likely have a dead motor. If the grounding isn’t good, the grounding area requires cleaning.

A bad speed control module

The speed control module controls the speed of the motor. If the speed control module dies, the blower motor will not function. Test the control module by disconnecting the electrical connector at the blower, jumper power, and ground connections. Then bypass the control module by running a fused jumper from the battery to the motor power terminal and connecting a temporary grounding jumper to the other motor terminal. The motor should run at full speed.

Check this too: How To Troubleshoot A Noisy Alternator

If it runs at full speed, there are problems with the speed controller module or the HVAC control head. You will have to use a scan tool to identify which parts are defective and replace them. If the motor doesn’t run, then the problem is somewhere else.

Ford Ranger turn signals are not working

The most common components responsible for broken turn signals in your Ford Ranger include bulbs, wires, fuses, flasher units, and switches. With the help of a test light and multimeter, you can diagnose and fix the issue by following the instructions below.

Check the condition of the bulbs. If the bulb is blown, replace it.
Look for corrosion and damage around the bulb sockets and replace them if necessary.
Ensure the ground connection is correct. Trace the brown or black ground wires from the bulb housing to the point where it screws to the Ranger’s chassis. Remove the ground connection, clean it with steel wool and retighten it.
If the bulb and grounding are okay, look for a blown fuse. A blown fuse will shut off power to the turn signal lights. So you will have to replace the fuse to the electrical system to get it working again.
The turn signal switch sends signs and current to the turn signals. If the switch fails, the communication between the turn signal level and signal lights breaks. Contact an automobile electrician to fix this complex wiring issue.
The flasher module provides power to the turn signals. If the module becomes faulty, the turn signals may turn on, but they will flicker.

Ford Ranger windshield wipers not working

Your Ford Ranger windshield wipers ensure you have a clear view when driving. Unfortunately, there are various causes why no fluid comes shoots out of the nozzles when you switch on the washer on your Ford Ranger. Below are the common reasons and how to fix them.

Failed pump

The best way to test a working pump is by performing a noise test:

Park your Ford Ranger in a quiet place.
Turn on the vehicle and turn down the driver’s window.
Stand outside and switch on your windshield washer. You should hear a whirring sound from a working pump.
If there is no sound, the pump is not functional, or there is no power to the pump.
If there is a whirring sound and the pump isn’t working, the nozzles have probably clogged.

Check if there is power reaching the washer pump. Use a multimeter to test for voltage at the electrical connector running from the pump. The multimeter reading should be around 12 volts when you switch on the washer and indicates a faulty pump that needs replacing. If the reading is very low or has zero volts, the wiring is defective and will need replacing by an electrician.

Clogged spray nozzles

Over time, insects, dirt, debris, pollen, and limescale will accumulate and clog the nozzles at the bottom of the windshield. You can easily clean the nozzles with a needle with older Ford Ranger models. However, newer Ranger models have micro-emitters that produce a broader and finer spray jet. Unfortunately, these micro-emitters have finer nozzles that tend to clog faster.

To test the nozzles, pull the end of the hose from the washer nozzle and then switch on the washer. If there is little to no washer fluid coming out of the hose, it indicates the nozzles are okay, and the problem is elsewhere.

Blown washer pump fuse

The washer pump requires electricity to work. Therefore if the fuse blows, it cuts out current to the pump and won’t work. Check your Ranger’s fuse box for the fuse to the washer pump. If the filament in the fuse has broken or the fuse is black, replace it with a new one with similar amperage.

Faulty switch

In rare cases, the switch you press to activate the windshield washer can go bad and prevent the washer system from working. Diagnose the issue by removing the switch from the Ford Ranger’s interior, test it with a multimeter and replace it if necessary.

Check this too: Why Are My Rain Sensing Wipers Not Working?

Frozen washer fluid

Sometimes you may forget to fill in the washer fluid appropriate for winter. The wrong washer fluid will freeze during winter and prevent the washer system from working. Park your Ranger in a warm garage to thaw the fluid in the washer system.

Examine the washer reservoir and hose for damage because liquids expand when they freeze, which can break the hose or reservoir. If any of the two components have cracks, replace them, then refill the washer system with the suitable fluid for cold temperatures.

Ford Ranger tail lights are not working.

Ford Ranger light issues are pretty prevalent. However, a bad tail light needs immediate repair, leading to road accidents. Here are the most likely reasons why your Ford Ranger tail lights are not working.

Burnt or wrong bulb

Like standard household bulbs, tail light bulbs also get burnt and need replacing.

Also, if you recently replaced your tail lights, you may have used the wrong bulb. Even if a bulb fits into the tail light socket, it doesn’t make it suitable for a tail light. Confirm with the old bulbs or call your Ford dealer to confirm the right bulb type for your Ranger model year.

Corroded socket

While checking the bulbs, inspect the condition of the sockets. The sockets corrode and rust when exposed to the elements leading to electrical problems, including a bad tail light. If there is rust, use some steel wool and WD-40 to clean the socket. If the damage is too much, replace the socket. Finally, ensure the taillights are sealing securely to prevent exposure of the components inside to the elements.

Blown fuse

A burnt-out taillight fuse is the most common reason why your tail lights are not working. First, check the tail light fuse in your Ranger’s fuse box using a multimeter. If the taillight fuse has blown, replace it with a new one with similar amperage.

Faulty control switch

The tail lights control switch in your Ford Ranger’s cabin signals the tails on when to turn on. If this control switch is faulty, your tail light will not come on. You may lose the front parking lights when the switch is defective. You will also need a professional mechanic to diagnose and repair the switch.

Wiring problems

Damaged wires, frayed wires, and loose connections can cut off the tail light circuitry, therefore preventing the lights from turning on. Wiring issues can be complex. Consequently, you will need a professional automobile electrician to diagnose and pinpoint where the damage is.

Defective ambient daylight sensor

The later Ford Ranger model years have automatic daylight sensors that detect when to turn on which light. If the sensor is bad, there will be no command for the tail lights to turn on when necessary. If the ambient daylight sensor is faulty, you will need to replace it to get your tail lights turning on at the appropriate time.

Dirt can also accumulate on the sensor and prevent it from working sufficiently. Inspect the sensor and clean it to get it working correctly.

Ford Ranger heater is not getting hot

Your vehicle’s cabin warms up using the heat from the engine unless you have an electric car. Therefore, your Ford Ranger’s heater will not work if the temperature gauge isn’t moving much from the lowest reading or the vehicle runs poorly for more than a few minutes. Read through why your Ford Ranger heater is not warming up your car to diagnose the issue quickly.

A malfunctioning heater switching system

Before fixing the heater, you need to make sure the heater is turning on. Here are a few things to check to ensure the heater switching system is not malfunctioning.

Check for a blown fuse and replace it if necessary.
Try turning on the heater, and you should hear a slight clicking sound from the dashboard.
Make sure the heating indicator light is coming on.
If your Ford Ranger model uses an automatic climate control system, turn the temperature dial all the way.
Ensure the AC is off. If both the heater and AC are on, they cancel each other out.

If the heating system turns on and the cabin still won’t heat up, continue troubleshooting.

Low coolant level

The first thing to check when your vehicle’s heater isn’t blowing hot air is low antifreeze or coolant. Although the engine can still run at the correct operating temperature when the coolant reduces slightly, it might not make it to the heater core. Thus the cabin will remain cold. Check the coolant level, and refill it. Do not overfill it past the “Cool Fill Line.”

If your coolant reduces too frequently, check for a leaky radiator. If the radiator has holes or cracks, your mechanic can inspect it and decide if it is worth fixing the holes or replacing the entire radiator.

Faulty thermostat

The second most probable reason for a chilly cabin is a broken thermostat. If the thermostat is stuck open, the engine will take longer to warm up because the coolant will circulate nonstop. If your AC is not blowing cold air, the thermostat is defective.

Locate the thermostat valve where the large hose from the radiator enters the engine and disconnects it. Test the thermostat by putting it in a pan of boiling water. It should open before it reaches boiling point, close, and cool. If the valve doesn’t move, replace the valve or the entire thermostat with the same temperature rating.

Faulty heater fan

If you have sufficient coolant flowing into the heater core, the heater fan that blows the hot air into the cabin is probably not turning. So first, check if the heater fan is spinning freely. If it is not, you need to replace the blower motor.

Faulty blower motor control module

If your Ford Ranger blower is only working on the highest setting, the blower motor control module is broken and needs replacing.

Clogged heater core

Although less occurring than other issues, dirt and debris can make their way into the coolant system and clog the heater core. Rust from the radiator can also lodge into the heater core and prevent it from working correctly. The heater core functions like a small radiator that passes the hot air from under the dashboard and into the vehicle’s cabin. First, check if the heater is blocked by blowing into it or passing water through it. If it is blocked, you have to refurbish your heater core or replace it.

Ford Ranger’s fuel gauge is not working.

If the fuel gauge in your Ford Ranger is not working, if it is stuck on full or empty or changing erratically.

Reset the fuel gauge

Try resetting it if you notice the fuel gauge not moving when refilling your gas tank. To reset your Ford Ranger fuel gauge;

Press the ODO/TRIP button, then turn off the vehicle.
Press and hold the ODO/TRIP button and turn your Ford Ranger back on.
Make sure it says ODO/TRIP mode.
Turn off the vehicle again.
Wait 10 minutes, turn on the Ranger, and then back off.

The fuel gauge should now reset, drive around and see if it is working.

Sending unit failure

If the gauge’s needle moves, the sending unit has a problem. It measures the quantity of fuel then sends the data to the gauge in the dashboard. Usually, the sending unit is in constant motion, rubbing the variable resistor when the vehicle moves. Over time, the contacts wear out and create an open circuit. Therefore the gauge will display voltage feedback from a faulty sender unit as full or empty, no matter the actual fuel level.

Fill up your gas tank and measure the sending unit with a multimeter to test the sending unit. Then find out the standard resistance for your Ford Ranger year model. If the resistance is even a few ohms off, the sending unit is faulty and requires replacing.

Blown fuse

If you’re experiencing an issue with more than one gauge on the instrument panel, there is likely a blown fuse or circuitry issue. Locate the gas gauge fuse box and look for darkened glass or broken filament inside to indicate a blown fuse. If the fuse is blown, replace it.

Wiring problems

If the fuse is intact, there may be a broken electrical connection between the sending unit and the gauge. Check the float supply using a multimeter and ensure you get a 12-volt reading. Loose connections, broken wires, and corrosion can prevent the sending unit from sending signals to the gauge. If you suspect wiring issues, call in a mechanic to pinpoint the source of the problem and fix it.

Faulty fuel gauge

Use a multimeter to test if the fuel gauge is working. If there is no voltage at the gauge, it is faulty and will need a replacement.

Ford Ranger auto start/stop is not working

The Ford Ranger auto start/stop feature automatically activates every time the driver starts the car. Therefore you will know auto start/stop has stopped working when an “A” in a circle with a strike-through appears on the dashboard. Before troubleshooting auto start/stop to know how manual and automatic transmissions work.

For both Ford Ranger manual and automatic transmissions, the engine may stop under specific conditions, such as:

Low engine operating temperature.
To maintain the cabin climate.
Low battery charge level
The ambient temperature is too low or too high
Opening the driver’s door when in motion
The heated windshield is on.
During regeneration of the diesel particulate filter

On automatic transmissions only:

When the driver seatbelt has disengaged.
The steering angle is greater than 90 degrees.
The transmission is in sport (S) or manual (M).

On the other hand, the engine on both Ford Ranger manual and automatic transmissions may restart under the following conditions:

To maintain the interior climate, such as air conditioning.
The battery charge level is low.
The heated windshield has turned on.
Your vehicle starts to go downhill in neutral.

On automatic transmissions only:

When the driver seatbelt has unfastened.
The driver’s door is open when driving.
Transmission has shifted to sport (S) or manual (M)

Thus, below are all the reasons why your Ford Ranger auto start/stop is not working.

The stop/start feature won’t activate if the weather is too cold or hot outside

This is because when it’s too chilly, the engine will keep running until it reaches its optimal temperature. When it’s too hot, the engine will keep running to ensure the AC compressor keeps running to cool the engine down and the cabin.

Battery charge management switches off auto start/stop

The battery is responsible for igniting the engine. However, if the battery has a low charge, the Battery Management System(BMS) switches off start/stop to allow the engine to start. A similar safety mechanism occurs when you install the wrong battery technology, which provides fewer charging cycles for your Ford Ranger. Also, if you do not enter the correct battery capacity, the BSM will not use a suitable algorithm. Therefore, your vehicle will not detect the new battery, and as a result, it will not use its full potential to run the systems. Consequently, you need to check the battery and ensure you’re using the correct one specified for your Ford Ranger model.

The engine is either too hot or too cold

If the engine temperature is too low, it must generate its heat through combustion, which requires a higher starting current. The result is start-stop function will stop to support the engine. On the other hand, if the engine’s temperature is too high, the fan on the radiator needs to cool it. Therefore start-stop function stop because the fan requires a large current.

Other factors that affect start/stop:

Not wearing the safety belts.
Driving up a steep hill
The parking assistant is active, that is, when in reverse gear.
When the wheel is at an acute angle
When the system detects a malfunctioning engine management system
The car doors or hood are not correctly closed.

Ford Ranger cruise control is not working

Cruise control helps you conveniently drive your Ford Ranger during long trips. It allows you to maintain a certain speed and even a specific distance behind the vehicle in front of you. Although the cruise control system in the Ford Ranger is reliable, it still doesn’t lack fault. A sudden cruise control failure can be dangerous. Therefore you’ll still need to maintain vigilance on the road. If your cruise control is failing and causing you to decelerate, here’s how you can identify the issue and fix it.

Blown fuses

Check the fuses for the brake lights and cruise control in the fuse panel under the steering wheel. These fuses will blow to protect the systems during a power surge. If both fuses have blown, replace them with fuses with similar amperage.

Malfunctioning brake pedal switch

The brake pedal switch turns on the brake lights when you depress the brake pedal. Similarly, the cruise control disengages when you push the brake pedal. This means the cruise control connects to the brake pedal switch through a cable. Therefore if the brake pedal switch blows out, the car will assume the brakes are engaged and not allow cruise control to turn on.

Speed sensor failure

The speed sensor indicates the speed of your Ford Ranger, regulates fuel flow and ignition timing, and operates cruise control. The cruise control system will stop working if the speed sensor fails, and the speedometer may also hang. If the speed sensor has problems, there will be an ABS warning light or a check engine light on the dashboard.

Electrical problems

The cruise control in modern Ford Ranger models is electronic. Therefore if the wiring is damaged or broken and the connectors are loose or corroded, the cruise control system will not work. You should test this by measuring the voltage supply to the system. Even the slightest reduction in power will affect cruise control.

Damaged vacuum actuator and hoses

If your Ford Ranger is an older model, its cruise control runs on a vacuum actuator and a cable connected to the throttle. The cruise control will stop working if there is any damage to the vacuum hoses and actuator. Additionally, a broken cable will disrupt the link between the actuator and throttle, causing the cruise control to fail.

The clutch pedal on my Ford Ranger is not working

Like your brake pedal, the clutch pedal should feel firm when depressed. It should have resistance and stop shy off the floorboard when you press it down. You should also change gears when you engage the clutch pedal. So if the clutch pedal drops down to the floorboard and the gears do not shift, there is a problem.

Troubleshooting a loose clutch pedal mostly depends on the type of clutch in your Ford Ranger. The easiest way to tell what clutch system your Ford Ranger uses is to open the hood and look for two components on the firewall that look like master cylinders. One is for your brakes, and the other is the clutch master cylinder. If you do not see these two parts, you have a cable-operated clutch. Below are instructions on how to diagnose a bad clutch pedal and fix it.

Broken clutch cable

If your Ford Ranger has a cable-operated clutch and is old, then a broken cable is likely the reason why your clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor. Replacing the cable with the help of a mechanic will allow the clutch to engage and the gears to shift.

Missing connector rod

The clutch cables connect to a throw-out fork and bearing with a small rode. If these connecting rods break out, the cable has no link to the ford, and your pedal will drop to the floor. Replacing this rod should fix the issue.

Low clutch fluid

When you press the pedal in a hydraulic clutch system, the clutch fluid in the system pressurizes and allows you to change gears. If the fluid level drops in the master or slave cylinder, the clutch system fails, and you cannot change gears. Visually inspect the reservoir. If the hydraulic fluid level is below the “full” line, it’s too inadequate. Check the fluid, and it should be a clear brownish color. If it is not, you need to flush the system and replace it with a new clutch fluid.

Failed clutch master or slave cylinder

Faulty cylinders have broken internal seals that are leaking fluid. You can investigate leaking by checking for the presence of fluid on the clutch pedal, firewall, or back of the engine. To ensure the clutch fluid doesn’t leak and run low, you will need to replace the worn seals. Also, if your clutch feels spongy, you have air in the clutch fluid line, which needs bleeding.

Ford Ranger tachometer not working

The tachometer displays the rotation of your engine’s crankshaft in RPM. Its purpose is to help you choose the right throttle and gear for different driving conditions. Driving long in the red danger zone can cause reduced lubrication, overheating, and excessive engine wear. That’s why it is important to have a functioning tachometer in your Ford Ranger. A failed tachometer could be due to mechanical or electronic problems. Here are some troubleshooting techniques for your bad Ford Ranger tachometer.

Tachometer display failure

If your Ford Ranger is a newer model with a digital display and there is no reading on the tachometer, the reason might be a faulty LED Display. If the LED Screen is busted, you will have to replace it immediately.

Blown fuses

Erratic or inaccurate readings are a sign of wiring issues and electrical complications. Corroded wires, loose connectors, and breakage can stop the tachometer from working. Trace the wire connections from the crankshaft to the display panel while looking for visible damage. Make sure the tachometer is adequately grounded. Tighten any loose connectors and replace corroded wires.

Calibration issues

Incorrect RPM levels compared to the engine’s working status may indicate the calibration is out of sync. For instance, if your car is idle speed, the tachometer should display between 600 RPMS and 1000 RPMs. There is a calibration problem if the tachometer is too low or too high. You can get your tachometer working properly by resetting the digital tachometer.

Ford Ranger air conditioner not changing to dash vents

There are several reasons that can prevent air from coming out through the dashboard vents. To diagnose the issue, you need to check various components of your Ford Ranger’s ventilation system. Below are the factors responsible for faulty dashboard air vents.

Blown fuse

The vehicle’s ventilation system relies on a fuse for power surge protection. If the ventilation system’s fuse burns out, it interrupts current to the vents and prevents them from working.

Bad relay

A relay is a small current that regulates a larger current needed by the ventilation system. Therefore if a relay goes bad, the vents will not receive the power to operate.

Damaged blower motor

The blower motor sends air through the vents and into your vehicle’s cabin. If the blower motor is damaged or stuck, it prevents air from coming through the vents. Likewise, the blower motor resistor regulates the flow of air the motor blows through the vents, that is, low, medium, or high, based on your settings. So if your blower resistor becomes faulty, it will affect the flow of cool air into your car.

Blocked air intake

Air enters your Ford Ranger through vents by the lower half of the windshield, and the other is recirculated air from inside the cabin. If a clogged filter or dirt blocks either air intake area, your vents will blow little to no air.

Worn hoses

The ventilation system in your Ford Ranger has several hoses connecting the components to transport fluid. Any tear, disconnection, or blockages of the hoses will prevent the proper airflow from the vents. A torn hose will also lead to leaking coolant and reduce the effectiveness of your vehicle’s AC.

Ford Ranger reverse lights are not working.

Reverse lights on any vehicle are not a legal requirement; however, they are beneficial. They help warn other road users you are about to reverse and provide light if you’re reversing in the dark. The reverse lights circuit is simple, consisting of one or two rear light units operated by a switch. So when they stop working, you can quickly diagnose the issue yourself. Below are reasons the reverse lights on your Ford Ranger will stop functioning.

Blown bulb

Remove the bulb from its holder and attach it to a short extension wire to the battery terminals. If the bulb doesn’t light up, replace it. If the bulb lights up, it indicates the problem is elsewhere in the circuit.

Wiring and socket issues

Inspect the bulb holder and wiring terminals for corrosion and dirt. If they have corroded, clean them with a set or dry paper, then re-insert the bulb to test it.

Blown fuse

Typically, the fuse protects the reverse lights and other accessories from overcurrent. However, the fuse will burn out during a power surge and interrupt the circuitry. Therefore the reverse light will not receive power and will not turn on. Open the fuse box in your Ford Ranger, look for a broken filament or darkened glass cylinder, then replace it if necessary.

Faulty reverse light switch

If the fuse and wiring had no damage, but there is no current, look out for a faulty gearbox switch. There are two switches on a manual Ford Ranger model and four switches on an automatic model. Two of those terminals in an automatic vehicle are for the inhibitor circuit and should not be disturbed or moved.

To test the reverse light switch, turn on the ignition and put the gear in reverse. Connect the test lamp to the grounding and probe one terminal, then the other. If the lamps turn on both terminals, the problem is in the wiring between the switch and reversing lights. If the lamp doesn’t light, the fault is in the wiring between the fuse and the switch. If the lamp lights up on one terminal, the switch is either broken or needs readjusting.

Replace the reverse light switch by disconnecting the wiring and unscrewing the switch to release it. Reconnect the new reverse switch in reverse order, then adjust it.

Adjusting the reverse light switch on a manual gearbox

Connect a circuit tester across the terminals.
Shift to reverse gear and turn the locknut right.
Screw-in the switch until the tester lights up, then tighten the locknut.

Adjusting the reverse light switch on an automatic gearbox

Not all automatic gearbox switches are adjustable. Always check your Ford Ranger manual to confirm the procedure, but here is a basic method to adjust the reverse light switch.

Identify the four switch wires and terminals, then disconnect them.
Shift the gear lever to the Drive position.
Loosen the locknut and unscrew the switch from the gearbox.
Use a circuit tester with its power supply(not a test lamp), connect it across the two reversing light terminals.
Then slowly screw the switch in until the tester light turns off. Mark the switch and gearbox with a marker.
Now connect the circuit tester across the other two inhibitor terminals.
Screw the switch further in until the tester light turns on again, then mark this position on the gearbox in line with the prior mark on the switch.
Unscrew the switch until its mark is halfway between the gearbox’s two marks and then tighten the locknut.

Conclusion

The Ford Ranger ranks near the top of the compact pickup truck class. However, no car is perfect. Like any faulty object, many reasons can be the leading culprit to a specific problem. To help diagnose your Ford Ranger problems, go through our article that compiles the most common issues and questions relating to the Ford Ranger to help you troubleshoot.