Toted as one of the most dependable and durable truck in the market, the Toyota Tundra is definitely worth its reputation. Not only is it great for driving in all sorts of terrain, it can also tow loads weighing over 10,000 pounds.
Its features make it a worthy investment. And to make sure you get the best out of your truck, it is imperative that you fix any arising issues before they cause more problems or damage parts which have to be replaced for the truck to work properly.
Keep reading to learn everything there is to learn about Toyota Tundra and how to troubleshoot any arising issues.
How much can a Toyota Tundra tow?
The towing capacity varies from year to year.
| Year | Capacity |
| 2021-2020 | 8,800-10,200 pounds1 |
| 2019-2018 | 6,400-10,200 pounds1 |
| 2017-2015 | 6,400-10,500 pounds1 |
| 2014 | 4,000-10,500 pounds1 |
| 2013-2011 | 4,500-10,400 pounds1 |
How many catalytic converters are in a Toyota Tundra?
At the moment, Toyota Tundra has four catalytic converters.
How many miles will a Toyota Tundra last?
Toyota Tundras are built to last. If you maintain is regularly, you can expect a Toyota Tundra to last more than 300,000 road miles. And the best part is that both the pickup truck itself and the engine under its hood are good for this mileage.
Toyota Tundra horn not working
Below are some of the common causes that stops the horn from working normally on your Toyota Tundra;
1. Blown fuse
The horn on Toyota Tundra needs electricity to work. In case of a faulty fuse, the circuit is interrupted and the horn cannot work. Check your Tundra’s user manual or the fuse box cover to find the exact location of the fuse for the horn. If the fuse is blown, replace it with a new one with the specified amp rating.
To check the fuse;
- Pull it out of Tundra’s fuse box using a fuse puller or needle nose plier and hold it against the light.
- If the metal strip is broken in the middle, the fuse has blown.
- You must replace it with one of the same amperage and therefore the same color. Also, it does not matter in which direction you insert the fuse.
2. Bad relay
Relays are electromagnetic switches that are used to switch electrical loads on and off. A bad relay can also be the cause of horn failure on your Toyota Tundra. The horn relay is rectangular or square shaped with 3 or more legs at the bottom.
Start by finding out where the horn relay is located in your particular model of Tundra. And disconnect the vehicle’s battery. You can use AC relay to test the horn relay. With this you can easily test whether the electromagnetic switch is causing the malfunction.
Note: Be careful not to damage anything when removing the relays. And remember to reconnect the battery after replacing the relay.
3. Bad horn
A broken horn could be the reason why you can no longer honk on your Toyota Tundra. Horns rarely break down, they can last decades and can even outlive the life of the vehicle.
However, it can fail depending on how often you use it. If the horn is working but sounds off, it’s because one of the horns has worn out.
You can test the horn on your Tundra by checking the voltage at the connector or with a test light.
4. Broken wire or bad connector
The horn sits at the front of your Toyota Tundra where grime and other small particles can build up over time. This can lead to corrosion on the connector resulting in poor conductivity.
You don’t necessarily have to replace the corroded connector; in most cases the connector can be cleaned with WD-40. For safety reasons, make sure the battery is disconnected when cleaning the connector, and the connector is fully dry before you plug it back in.
If you don’t see any corrosion on the connector of your Tundra, then its time to perform the voltage test with a multimeter, you can also use a test light.
- Turn on the multimeter and insert the probes into the connector, one at each point.
- Ensure the metal part of probes don’t touch each other or it will short out and blow up the fuse, and may cause damage to the vehicle’s electrical system.
- After inserting the probes, ask a friend to press the horn button in the vehicle.
- The multimeter should read 12+ volts.
- If it reads 0 volts then it indicates conductivity failure in the horn system: a broken wire, bad connector, broken clock spring or faulty switch can be the cause other than blown fuse or bad relay.
Note: If there are bite marks this could be caused by rodent damage. Carefully examine all other cables and hoses for damage, including electrical wires for the horn.
5. Broken clock spring
The spiral cable or clockspring is a spiral-wound special rotary electrical connector in your Toyota Tundra which allows the steering wheel to turn while still making an electrical connection between the buttons on the steering wheel, including horn button, and the vehicle’s electrical systems.
The clockspring is located between the steering wheel and the steering column. The clockspring contains delicate wires that can get damaged during servicing or due to overuse if the vehicle has put on too many miles.
If the clockspring is damaged in your Tundra, you may see other system malfunctions as well. For example, the airbag warning light may illuminate in the instrument cluster, or other buttons on the steering wheel may stop working. But in rare cases, it is possible that only horn wire in the spiral gets damaged.
Note: You cannot repair a damaged clockspring. They are relatively inexpensive and once found defective should be replaced with a new one.
6. Faulty horn switch
Another reason for non-functioning horn can be failure of horn button in the steering wheel of your Toyota Tundra. Over time, depending on how frequently the horn has been used, the button may eventually wear out and cease to function.
Toyota Tundra interior lights not working
The interior lights in your Toyota Tundra have three settings: the first one allows the lights to go on when you open the door, the second one allows them to go on when you turn them on manually, and the third one shuts them off.
Item Needed
- Flat head screwdriver
- Replacement fuses
- Replacement bulbs
- Voltmeter
Step 1 – Check fuses
The most common reason the interior lights is acting up is a blown fuse. The fuse box is located under the dashboard, by the driver’s side. On the cover of the fuse box you will find a diagram, which will guide you to which fuse is responsible for the interior light. Remove the fuse and inspect it to see if it’s blown. If it’s blown, it should have a broken line inside of it, or it would look darker than the rest. Replacing the blown fuse would solve your problem.
If the fuse is working properly, proceed to Step 2.
Step 2 – Check dome light bulb
The other obvious cause for a non-working light is a bad light bulb. This issue is considered an easy fix. You will need to purchase a new bulb, which should cost very little, then you just need to do a quick swap between the old bulb and the new one. Pop the cover off the dome light gently using your flat head screwdriver. Then inspect the bulb. If it’s burnt, replace it, and that should fix the issue.
If the bulb isn’t burnt, proceed to Step 3.
Step 3 – Check dome light’s current
Using your voltmeter, insert the probes in the connectors where the bulb connects. Make sure your dome light is turned on. You should be reading 12 volts. If you’re not getting any reading, then you have a shortage and you’re not getting any current to the dome light. At this point, consulting a professional might be a good idea, unless you’re an electrical wizard.
Toyota Tundra Bluetooth not working
There are several reasons why your phone would not appear on your Toyota’s multimedia screen.
The vehicle’s Bluetooth setting may not be enabled.
To check this feature, go to menu > setup > Bluetooth> detailed settings > and verify that Bluetooth power is turned on. Make sure that your phone’s Bluetooth option is turned on, you can turn on Bluetooth in your phone’s settings.
Note: If there are 5 devices already registered on your Toyota, a new Bluetooth connection will not be made.
Use the same steps above to check which devices are registered on your Toyota, and then remove an old device to pair your new one.
If there are two connected devices paired at the same time, one may be selected as audio-only. To fix this, go to the Bluetooth menu and select “registered devices”. Here you can select which device you’d like to have enabled for phone or music settings by pressing the appropriate icon.
If your phone pairs with your Toyota correctly, but your Toyota will not alert you to new messages or phone calls, follow these steps:
Check your phone permissions.
Go into your phone’s settings to ensure that push notifications for calls and messages from your preferred app are enabled beside your connected vehicle’s name.
If you continue to have problems, you may need to reset your phone or your Entune system:
To reset your phone, power off your phone completely for 30 seconds, and turn it back on. Be sure you’re powering off your phone and not just restarting it.
To reset the Entune System, press and hold the audio knob to power off the system and Entune will power off and restart on its own.
Last Resort
You also need to remember that not every device could be compatible with your Toyota vehicle. Lastly, contact your Toyota dealer. It could be that your Toyota needs a software upgrade to enable your phone’s connectivity, or it could be a more serious problem.
Toyota Tundra won’t go into gear
Below are some reasons why your Tundra won’t go into gear;
Bad Synchros
To help the rapidly-spinning gears to smoothly mesh together in a standard transmission, synchronizers (or “synchros”) are an important component. Over time, especially if you do a lot of heavy-footed driving and aggressive shifting, these synchros can wear out.
If they wear out, you may find the transmission grinds when shifting gears, the transmission may quickly “pop” out of gear or you may not be able to shift gears at all. Replacing bad synchros in a manual transmission is typically a more affordable choice than replacing or rebuilding the transmission entirely.
Worn-Out Clutch
A dragging clutch can also put additional strain on a manual transmission. That can be caused by a problem with the clutch pedal linkage or hydraulics. Furthermore, if the clutch disc is allowing the transmission to slip, you may not get any power even if the transmission appears to be in gear.
The clutch disc is a wearable component that may need regular replacement on your vehicle. If the manual transmission is slipping, losing power and difficult to shift, you may need the clutch adjusted or the clutch disc replaced.
Shift Lock
If your vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, you already know that the transmission won’t let you shift out of park unless it detects someone is in the driver’s seat and their foot is on the brake.
This is the shift lock mechanism. It’s an important safety feature, so the vehicle cannot roll because a curious child or clumsy passenger bumped the shifter. However, this part can malfunction and prevent you from shifting into gear at all.
Fortunately, automatic transmissions come with a shift lock override. Consult your owner’s manual to find out how yours works. All these gears and moving parts must be lubricated by clean transmission fluid for best performance
Dirty Transmission Fluid
Automatic transmissions require transmission fluid to work properly. In fact, the torque converter (a part of an automatic transmission) works entirely on the principle of fluid dynamics.
Over time, dirt, debris and other tiny particles can accumulate in the transmission fluid, affecting its fluid properties. This can cause the vehicle to die when you shift into drive or reverse, allow a loss of power, transmission slip, rough shifts or even prevent the vehicle from shifting into gear at all.
Replacing dirty transmission fluid according to the recommended maintenance schedule for your vehicle will help ensure the longevity of the transmission.
Failed Engine Computer
At the end of the day, a modern automatic transmission is controlled by the vehicle’s engine control unit, or ECU. The ECU uses information like engine speed and throttle position to determine when to shift the transmission.
If something goes wrong under the hood for which the ECU cannot compensate, or if the ECU suffers some sort of damage or glitch, you may experience transmission trouble. If the transmission is behaving oddly, you may want to have the ECU reset or replaced by an expert OEM technician.
Broken Transmission Linkage
Whether you’ve got an automatic transmission or a manual, it’s also possible (though unlikely) that something between the shifter in the cabin and the transmission itself has become disconnected.
A broken or dislodged shifter cable could be caused by an accident or a particularly rough bump in the road. In a standard transmission, if the clutch pedal sinks all the way to the floor before you feel the clutch bite point, then you’ll need an adjustment to the clutch pedal cables or hydraulics.
Toyota Tundra Stuck in Park
Here are a few possibilities that could be causing the problem;
Parking Brake Stuck
If your Tundra is parked on a hill, then the force of gravity could be forcing your transmission to put pressure on the parking lock in the transmission. This happens a lot when you don’t use a parking brake on a hill.
To get it unstuck, rock it from the driver’s seat. Just throw your weight around.
- Turn the vehicle engine on.
- Rock the vehicle with your foot off the brake.
- Press the brake down when you have rocked toward the hill a bit. You want to “catch” it with the brake at the right time. This will take pressure off of the parking lock.
- Apply light pressure to the shifter to avoid breaking the shift linkage.
Shift Lock Solenoid Failure
The shift lock solenoid is the mechanism that keeps you from shifting out of park without your foot on the brake. The good news is that most shift locks have an override button. You will need to find it for your particular model year of Tundra.
Finding it is usually pretty easy. Just look at your shifter. There’ll be a little plastic cover, you pop it off and override the shifter lock solenoid.
Bad Shift Linkage
The shift linkage on your Tundra will usually provide a lifetime of dependable service. If you are positive that the gear shifter is not stuck in park (see directly above), then it’s likely that the shift linkage may be bad. Replace it to remedy the issue.
Toyota Tundra radio won’t turn on
Try the solutions below to fix the issue;
Verify the Unit Isn’t in Protect Mode
Before diving into the diagnostic process, verify that your head unit doesn’t have any sort of anti-theft mode. If the display is totally blank when the unit fails to power up, that is a good indication that you’re actually dealing with another problem.
However, you may want to consult the owner’s manual, if you have access to it, or contact the manufacturer if you don’t, in order to verify that there isn’t a specific procedure that you will need to follow.
Check the Fuses
Most car radios have either one or two fuses that you’ll have to check, and you may also have car amp fuses and other related components in the mix. One will be located in your vehicle’s main or accessory fuse block, and it will often be labeled in an obvious manner.
You can test an automotive fuse by visually inspecting it, or you can use a multimeter or test light to check for power on both sides of the fuse. If you have access to a multimeter or test like, that’s the better way to go since it is possible for a fuse to fail in such a way that it is difficult to tell one way or the other simply by looking at it.
Note: Some head units have built-in fuses, typically located on the back side, and some installations have additional in-line fuses located somewhere on the power wire or wires. If any of these fuses are blown, that may be the reason your car radio won’t turn on, so replace the fuses to see if that fixes the problem.
Check the Pigtail Connector
Before you progress any further into the diagnostic procedure, you will have to remove the head unit to gain access to the wiring. With that in mind, you may want to check to see if the pigtail connector is seated properly in the head unit.
If there are any doubts about the pigtail, you can remove it and replace it, ensuring that it seats properly. If your particular installation has an adapter that connects between the head unit and the factory wiring, then you can also unplug the entire thing and reconnect it to ensure that everything is making good electrical contact, and then attempt to power up the radio again.
In some cases, with certain aftermarket head units and adapters, you may also find that unplugging the head unit and adapter for a time will fix the issue. In these cases, you may benefit from leaving everything unplugged for fifteen to twenty minutes, reconnecting, and then checking the operation of the unit again.
Check for Power at the Head Unit
If the fuses are good, and the connections are good, then the next step is to check for power at the radio itself. Most car radios have two power wires. If these power wires are reversed, the radio will fail to work properly or at all.
Although you can check for power at the back of the radio with a test light, you’ll get a more complete picture if you use a multimeter. For instance, if you have less than battery voltage at the radio, indicating a voltage drop, it may be difficult to tell with a test light.
If there is no power at the head unit, but there is power at the fuse block, you are probably dealing with a broken wire, so you will have to trace the power wire back to the source.
Check for Ground at the Head Unit
Poor head unit grounds are more likely to cause issues like ground loops than total failures, but if everything else checks out, you will want to verify that your head unit has a good ground before you condemn the unit.
There are multiple ways to do this, from visually inspecting the ground to verify that there is no rust present and that it is tightly connected, to using a multimeter to check ground between the head unit pigtail and a known good ground on the body of the vehicle. In most cases, a poor ground won’t cause the head unit to fail to turn altogether, while a ground that has become disconnected altogether will.
Bench Test the Head Unit and Replace if Needed
If your radio has power and ground, and it isn’t in any kind of anti-theft mode, then it has probably failed, and the only fix will be to replace it. You can bench test the unit by connecting the power and ground leads directly to 12V positive and negative.
If the power and ground both showed good in the vehicle, you are unlikely to find a different result with the unit removed. It may be time to replace the head unit.
Why is my Toyota Tundra not accelerating?
Below are some common reasons why your Tundra is not accelerating and how to fix them.
Toyota Tundra Won’t Accelerate when RPMS Go Up
Here are the most common cause of acceleration with the RPM’s going up:
1. Low Transmission Fluid
If your Tundra is too low on transmission fluid, it’ll will no longer be able to transfer power to the rear wheels. The power goes to the torque converter, and that’s the end of the line. You should check the transmission fluid immediately. This is the number one cause of not accelerating but the RPM’s Go up.
2. Bad torque converter
The torque converter is responsible for taking the mechanical power of the engine and converting it into hydraulic power. If the torque converter has gone bad, it will no longer be able to do this job. No power can get to the transmission.
3. Drivetrain No Longer Connected to Wheels
If you’ve broken a drive/axle shaft, your Toyota Tundra’s transmission has no way to turn the wheels anymore. If this were the case, there would not be any movement whatsoever from the vehicle. You also wouldn’t feel the slight jerk your Tundra as you put it into gear.
4. Bad Transmission
If something has gone wrong in the transmission, your Tundra may not be able to accelerate any more. If it can no longer shift, it could be caused by a solenoid/valve body has gone bad, clutch packs, debris, and much more. Automatic transmission are very complicated.
5. Clutch
Although the manual transmission is going away, if you happen to have a Tundra equipped with one, a bad clutch can cause it not to accelerate. The clutch is responsible for making a direct connection between the engine (via the flywheel) and the transmission (via the input shaft).
When the clutch can’t hold on anymore, it’ll start to slip. Slipping means that it loses its grip on the flywheel and it feels like you’ve pushed the clutch in. This will usually happen at highway speed, under heavy acceleration. It only gets worse as the clutch disk slips, burns up, and can handle less and less torque. Eventually it’ll only move in first gear or not at all.
Tundra Won’t Accelerate and the RPMS Stays Put
Here are some common issues that can affect the motor:
1. Clogged Catalytic Converter
If the catalytic converter gets too clogged up, it’ll keep the motor from accelerating properly. It’ll “bog” after a certain speed. Maybe it’ll drive 20 miles an hour just fine, but after that it just doesn’t want to accelerate whatsoever. This can also be a sign that it’s not getting enough fuel as well.
2. Bad Fuel Filter
A bad fuel filter will not let enough fuel into the Tundras fuel injection system to support operation above a certain demand on the engine. It just can’t provide the fuel pressure. If this is the case, like the catalytic converter, it’ll feel like everything is fine until you hit a certain speed, and then it’s going to bog down again.
3. Timing Chain or Belt
The timing chain (or belt) is responsible for keeping the upper valve train synced with the crankshaft. This is vital for spark timing. If the timing is off a little and the engine still runs, the timing belt may have skipped. If it has jumped too much the Tundra may not even fire.
4. Vacuum Leak
Your Tundra’s engine creates a vacuum as it runs. The amount that is created is carefully thought out during the engine design process. When there is too much vacuum, it creates a situation where air is not coming in and being read by the MAF sensor, which causes the vehicle to run wrong and not accelerate. The MAF sensor also may not be functioning correctly. If this is the case, it’ll almost always throw a trouble code.
Why is the AC in my Toyota Tundra not blowing?
The most common causes that hinders normal operation of air conditioning system on your Toyota Tundra include;
1. Dirty cabin air filter
The pollen filter, also known as the cabin filter or micro filter, is a central component of the ventilation system in your Toyota Tundra. A dirty filter causes the overall ventilation of the interior to deteriorate resulting in reduced cooling, heating and air flow.
It also puts unnecessary strain on the entire AC system which negatively impacts your Tundra’s fuel consumption. There is no prescribed time for changing cabin air filter, but most manufacturers recommend a change after 10,000-20,000 miles.
2. Dirty or clogged condenser
Like the radiator, the air conditioning condenser on Toyota Tundra sits at the front of the vehicle and is responsible for releasing the heat from the refrigerant into the ambient air. Over time, grime, bugs and other small particles can build up on its surface and in the gaps of its mesh.
This hinders the condenser’s ability to release heat as less air passes through the mesh, which results in poor cooling in the interior.
If the condenser is dirty on your Tundra, the simplest solution is to clean it. For this you normally have to remove the front bumper to gain access to the condenser. You can use power washer for cleaning, but make sure that its at low pressure setting, as high pressure can easily damage the delicate fins on the condenser.
A clogged or leaking condenser can also be the reason for air-conditioning not working properly on your Tundra. A leaking condenser can lead to a loss of refrigerant and reduced cooling performance of the system. In order to find leaks in the air conditioning system, a leak search is carried out in the workshop using forming gas – even the smallest leaks can be detected.
3. Refrigerant Leak
Insufficient amount of refrigerant is still the main cause of a non-functioning AC system. A loss of up to 15% of the refrigerant per year is normal due to the design. If you don’t have the system serviced regularly on your Tundra, the refrigerant level will eventually get so low that the system loses its cooling capacity.
Just have it refilled and you can drive with pleasant temperatures again. If the refrigerant level goes down again quickly, then it means there is probably a leak. In addition to the normal loss, component defects are usually responsible for the escape of the refrigerant gas on Toyota Tundra. A defective sealing ring, a worn line or a condenser that has been damaged by a stone chip are the most common causes.
4. Dirty evaporator
Dirty evaporator can also be the reason for AC problems on your Toyota Tundra. Cabin air filter captures most of the dirt or other airborne particles, but some escape and fall on to the evaporator. Over time, these dust particles can builds up on the fins and block the air flow through the evaporator, resulting in poor cooling.
The two most prominent symptoms of a clogged up evaporator on your Tundra are:
- The air flow from the vents is choppy and not smooth.
- The inside of the vehicle is developing a bad moldy smell.
Note: Cleaning the evaporator on Tundra is not a simple task. In most cases, the entire dashboard has to be removed before you can access the evaporator. Therefore, it is recommended to do this at a workshop. There can also be a refrigerant leak in the evaporator, in that case the evaporator will have to be replaced.
5. Compressor failure
The compressor is the heart of the entire air conditioning system on Toyota Tundra. It consists of moving parts that convert what is actually a gaseous coolant into liquid – this is how your vehicle is cooled.
A broken compressor is usually irreparable. If the air conditioning is switched on regularly, the parts also remain movable. If you don’t turn on the air conditioning on your Tundra for a long time, the parts will stick. The result is a defective compressor that can no longer be repaired. The only thing that helps is swapping with a new one.
The worst damage, however, is a failure of the AC compressor when it “eats” itself due to insufficient lubrication or a production error, metal chips form, which are distributed throughout the Tundra’s AC system.
6. Bad blower motor
If there is no air flow or reduced air flow from the vents on your Toyota Tundra, bad blower motor could be the culprit. A worn out or weakened blower motor can also produce abnormal sounds when in operation. You cannot repair a broken blower motor, the part must be replaced with a new one.
7. Faulty blend door actuator
Blend door actuator plays a role in controlling the air flow and temperature inside your Tundra. Anytime there is a problem with the temperature of the air conditioning system, it could be a problem with the blend door actuator.
The most common symptom of faulty blend door actuator is a slight clicking sound repeatedly coming from under the dashboard. The sound will be most prominent for a few seconds when you turn on the air conditioning or adjust the temperature. Sometimes changing the temperature can temporarily stop the sound.
Toyota Tundra tailgate won’t open
Start by opening the tailgate so that you can figure out which part is damaged and replace it.
How to open a broken tailgate
If the tailgate is broken, this may be due to a bad hinge or stuck lever. Both of these can be solved with some simple hand tools and a liquid lubricant.
- Grab the tailgate latch handle and try pulling it to the open position.
- Feel for any dry movement or grit in the handle movement.
- Spray the lubricant into the handle mechanism.
- Spray a generous amount into the mechanism and any moving part surrounding the handle.
- Let the lubricant soak in.
- Grab the screwdriver and move the side of the tailgate where it attaches to the truck side via the hinges.
- Slide the screwdriver into the hinge mechanism and try to manually release the black rubber gasket that holds the tailgate to the truck hinge rod.
- Push the screwdriver up to release the tailgate.
- Drop the tailgate down. Inspect the hinge and rod.
- Spray down the hinge and rod with the lubricant to prevent the sticking in the future, negating the need to open the tailgate with the screwdriver.
- Wipe down any excess lubricant with the rags.
- Close the tailgate and wipe off excess lubricant from the handle with the rags.
How to Fix a Toyota Tundra Tailgate
After you have figured out what is wrong with the tailgate, you can then proceed to fix it.
Items needed
- Replacement Tundra Tailgate Cables
- 4 foot chunk of 2×4
- Metric sockets and ratchet
- Phillips screwdriver
- WD-40 or other spray-on lubricant
- Paper towels
- Tundra VIN
- Handle Mechanism
Steps;
- Open and close the latch handle mechanism and listen for grinding, or the sound of grit or metal scraping.
- Open the hatch and lower the tailgate.
- Inspect the edges of the tailgate where the latches make contact with the housings on the truck bed.
- Inspect for dryness, grit or deterioration on the metal.
- Inspect the wire cables that hold the tailgate in position when lowered.
- Spray the WD-40 or lubricant onto the handle mechanism, making sure to spray under the handhold.
- Spray the metal connectors where the tailgate meets the housings on the truck bed.
- Let the lubricant soak in and wipe away any excess with paper towels.
- Move the handle mechanism up and down several times and watch the mechanism on the latch and sides of the tailgate for any problematic movement.
- Open the tailgate and lower. Place the 4-foot piece of 2-by-4 under the tailgate so it will stay upright when the cables are disconnected.
- Unscrew the cable housing set screws with the Phillips screwdriver.
- If the screws are sticky, spray WD-40 or other lubricant onto them and let it soak in and try again.
- Once loosened, pull the tailgate cables off the truck bed and tailgate.
- Thread the new cables into the set screws and tighten the screws by turning them to the right until firm and tight.
- Tighten the set screws as tightly as you can.
- Open and close the tailgate several times.
- Open the tailgate and let it “drop” until the cables catch it and prevents it from falling, to test the integrity of the cables.
Note: Check on Warranty Issues
- Go online to the Toyota Warranty Information website (see Resource 1). Due to the issues Toyota had with Tundras in 2007, there are several recall fixes on tailgates that Toyota will fix for free.
- Enter the VIN of your Tundra into the website. If you choose to phone Toyota, give the VIN to the representative on the Toyota end of the call.
- Ask about tailgate issues and warranty coverage for the tailgate. Ask if the warranty is negated if you attempt to repair the tailgate on your own, or if Toyota will provide free maintenance on any tailgate problems.
Toyota Tundra 2nd generation (2007-2013) Tailgate Handle Replacement
Tools needed
5/16″ Wrench
1/4″ Screwdriver Bits
- Remove the Torx-head screws (23.2mm) on the inside panel of the tailgate, using the torx T25 screwdriver.
- Pull off the panel and then pull cables inward, causing tailgate to release and go down.
- Remove rubber pieces from cable and pull cable from insert.
- Use your 5/16th-in. wrench to turn bolt counter clockwise and remove the bolts (18.5mm).
- Push in black clip to let handle fall out.
- Put new tailgate handle back in.
- Hand twist in bolts; then tighten with wrench.
- Insert cable back into socket and press rubber lock onto cable.
- Put panel back into place and screw in using your torx -T25 screwdriver.
Toyota Tundra cruise control not working
A sudden failure by the cruise control may mean your vehicle is rapidly decelerating. Even when cruise control is on, it is important to remain a vigilant driver.
Cruise control can be very convenient when on a long drive or when on the highway. By setting a speed, you can relax your foot and let the vehicle maintain speed. More modern cruise control systems even allow you to maintain speed and a certain distance behind the vehicle in front of you
Common reasons for this to happen:
Bad Fuse
Like many electronically controlled systems in your car, the cruise control has a corresponding fuse which will blow to protect the system if it senses a short circuit. When the fuse of for the cruise control blows, the cruise control will stop working altogether.
Failing Brake Pedal Switch
The brake pedal switch turns on the vehicles brake lights when it senses that the brake pedal has been pressed. Because cruise control systems have been designed to disengage when the brake pedal is pressed, the cruise control is wired to the brake pedal switch. If the brake pedal switch fails, the car may think the brakes are engaged and not allow the cruise control system to turn on.
Damaged Mechanical Components
If you’re driving an older car, there’s a chance that the cruise control may be mechanical. Mechanical cruise control is a relatively simple system: a cable connects the throttle to a part known as the vacuum actuator.
The actuator adjusts the cable depending on the cruise control’s setting. If the vacuum actuator is leaking, or if either component is damaged, the cruise control may not work.
Blown Fuse
If your cruise control system is electronically controlled, it will have an associated fuse. If there’s an electrical problem, the fuse will fail in order to keep other wiring from getting damaged.
Try replacing the fuse. If it solves the problem and the cruise control keeps working, that’s great! However, if the fuse blows again, there may be deeper electrical problems that you’ll need to deal with.
Damaged Speed Sensor
Can you guess what the speed sensor does in your Toyota? That’s right, it senses speed (specifically, how fast your vehicle is traveling). A damaged speed sensor may cause the cruise control not to work properly due to inaccurate readings. Since a damaged speed sensor can also cause problems with the speedometer, it should be fixed right away.
Faulty Brake Pedal Switch
When you step on the brake pedal, the brake lights turn on. This is due to the brake pedal switch. In addition to causing trouble with the brake lights, a broken brake pedal switch can also cause the cruise control to stop working.
If the switch is damaged and your vehicle thinks that the brake pedal is always being depressed, it won’t let the cruise control turn on. In addition to being inconvenient, this can be dangerous. After all, drivers will need to know when you’re braking and when you’re not.
Failing Speed Sensor
A speed sensor has many purposes including indicating the speed of the vehicle, regulating flow of fuel and ignition timing, and operating the cruise control. If the speed sensor fails the cruise control may stop working. You may also notice that the speedometer has stopped working and the engine has more difficulty when idling.
Damaged Vacuum Actuator/Hoses/Cable
On older vehicles, cruise control speed is maintained using a vacuum actuator and a cable connected to the throttle. A vehicle’s cruise control may stop working if the vacuum actuator has stopped working or if there is damage to the vacuum hoses. The system may also fail if the cable linking the actuator to the throttle is broken.
Note: A failed cruise control system can be a signal that other repairs may need to be made soon. By examining the cruise control, the mechanic is likely to also inspect other systems on the car including the brake lights and speedometer.
While driving without cruise control may be an inconvenience, a sudden failure of the cruise control system could be potentially dangerous for a driver who is not vigilant. If you notice that your vehicle’s cruise control has stopped working you should have a mechanic check it to determine the nature of the problem.
Toyota Tundra key won’t turn
Below are the main reasons why your Toyota key isn’t turning and what to do about it
On a light note, before trying anything else, make sure you are sitting in the correct vehicle.
Your steering wheel is locked
Perhaps you accidentally bumped your steering wheel when exiting your Toyota and it locked. If that’s the case, you can try moving your steering wheel rapidly from side to side while turning your key in the ignition.
Your key is worn or damaged.
If neither of the aforementioned fixes worked, then it’s possible your key is too worn or damaged to be recognized by the vehicle.
There’s a problem with your ignition switch.
If you’re in the right car, your steering wheel is turning fine, and nothing is wrong with your key, then it’s possible there’s a bigger issue with your vehicle’s ignition switch. In that case, get in touch with your local Toyota dealer to explore your options.
You are using the wrong key in a Toyota vehicle
Just like house keys, vehicle keys are unique for each ignition. If you attempt to use a key for a different Toyota vehicle, it may slide in, but it won’t turn. Ensure that you aren’t getting your keys mixed up, even if it does fit in the ignition.
The steering wheel is locked
The steering wheel of your vehicle may lock by accident. This is nothing to worry about. If your ignition feels stuck, try to turn your steering wheel back and forth as you turn the key in the ignition. It may help to have someone else work with you on this.
Toyota Tundra battery draining too quickly
If your car battery is draining too fast check to see if any of the reasons below are causing the quick battery drainage and how to prevent them
- Loose or corroded battery connections. Have these tightened or cleaned, perhaps even replaced if need be.
- Problems with the charging system. Your battery could be in fine shape, but the system that helps to charge it may be out of order.
- Extreme temperatures. This one you can’t really help unless you move, but if you live in an extreme climate, that can really take a toll on a battery.
Note: If you cannot find a clear reason for the drainage, call your mechanic to check it out.
Check this too: How Long Does It Take An Alternator To Charge A Car Battery
Toyota Tundra power windows not working
Power buttons are much harder to fix as compared to crank windows. Power windows open and close using an electric module that operates through a series of wires, fuses and signals between the switch and the vehicles on board computer or (ECU).
With the introduction of electrical components comes an added layer of complexity or failure point. Coupled with the regulator or actuator, which is an internal motor that operates behind the door card to guide the glass up and down. And if there is a short in any of the wiring between this components, it could cause issues and will need repair/replacement.
Here are the common causes for a window that won’t go up in your Tundra;
1. Wiring/Fuses
Looking to see if your Tundra blew a fuse is a great place to start. This is particularly true if the window does not seem to have been struggling before it failed to go up. If all of the windows don’t work, that is going to be a fuse or window relay that has gone bad.
You’ll need to locate the fuse box, and then the power window fuse. It’s pretty easy to tell if a fuse is blown. If the fuse is blown, replacing it will get your power window to go up. If it keeps blowing, you’ll need to figure out what is causing your wiring harness to short out.
2. Window Switch
Your power window switch can go bad. They are exposed to the elements every time that you open the door. They function very simply. There is a 12-volt signal at the switch. It sends that signal to the power window motor.
If you put a voltmeter on it, there should be 12 volts in as long as the key is on, and ±12 volts out when you press the switch.
3. Power Window Motor
Your Toyota Tundra’s power window motors can and do fail over time. You’ll have to take the door panel off to get to it. A lot of them are riveted in, so be prepared to deal with that. If you’ve verified that it is getting power with a voltmeter, but it is not working, it’s time to get a new one.
The motor going bad is almost always a slow process. If it was struggling to go up for a while (think in relation to the speed of the other windows), that’s a really good sign that it’s the window motor itself.
4. Window Guide
The window guide is what guides a window through the door as it goes back up. If it goes bad, then the window can stick.
How to fix your power windows
Follow the steps below to fix your power windows;
Items Needed
- Flat tip screwdriver
- Electrical probe
- Multimeter
- Electrical tape
- Wire splicers
- Electrical connectors
- Solder (optional)
- Toyota Service Manual
Step 1 – Check for continuity
There may be a break in constant DC voltage at a switch, fuse, module or wire. If a switch, fuse or module is faulty, it will not read constant 12v voltage; same situation if there is a break in a wire between any of the systems.
- Turn the ignition to “ON” position.
- Use test light, probe or multimeter to test for 12v voltage at Driver’s Control Module, which is located by foot well on driver’s side.
- Use test light, probe or multimeter to test for 12v voltage at Driver’s Window switch. The driver’s window switch can be removed via flat tip screwdriver, so you can access the connector for testing.
- Use test light, probe or multimeter to test for 12v voltage at Rear Power Window Module connector, which is located by driver’s rear corner behind tail light.
- Use test light, probe or multimeter to test for 12v voltage at circuit breaker. The circuit breaker is located far right of the driver’s foot well near firewall.
- Use test light, probe or multimeter to check wiring between door to kick panel.
- Testing voltage
- If it was found that one or more points in the system don’t have continuous voltage, proceed to Step 2.
- If not, proceed to Step 3.
Step 2 – Repair/replace faulty fuse, module, relay or wire
The circuit is “broken” if one of the components in the system of window operations is broken or faulty. The windows will all operate in a continuous circuit from each controlled module. If there is a short, a broken/missing module or blown fuse, the window(s) may not operate.
- Replace any blown fuses.
- Replace any faulty or missing modules and relays by disconnecting connector and screws and replacing unit as a whole.
- Repair wires that have shorts or breaks by using quality gauge wire, connectors and securing solid connections with electrical tape.
- If the result of this process still leaves some or all windows inoperable, proceed to Step 3.
Note: Spade connectors can be useful in using wires to jump relays. Some drop in relays can entirely replace relays used from the factory. It has also been noted that the rear power window shares a relay with the rear window wiper. This can be another point of failure to address/remedy.
Step 3 – Test or replace switch board
There is a switchboard behind the door cards that could be faulty. The switchboard behind the door cards controls communication between window motor and switch along with the wiring to the kick panel.
- Use flat tip screwdriver to lift and disconnect the window switch.
- Use Allen wrench or screwdriver to remove door card.
- Remove door pin by unscrewing clockwise.
- Test continuity at switchboard.
Note: Ensure the switch itself is not faulty or not getting power before diving into this. As well as the wiring between the door and kick panel.
Step 4 – Reinstall components and switches
Once replacement or repair is done, put it all back together.
- Reconnect connectors.
- Reinstall switches.
- Reinstall relays and modules.
- Secure and reinstall door cards with screws.
- Reinstall door pins.
- Confirm windows are still working as expected
Toyota Tundra backup camera not working
If your backup camera screen says no signal or shows a blurry black and white image, you may need to do some more troubleshooting to figure out your issue. If your backup camera problems seem a bit too overwhelming or out of your skillset, talk to a mechanic to get help.
Backup camera says no signal
If your backup camera says no signal that may mean it’s time to check the fuses or look for a new camera. There are a number of reasons that your camera might be giving you this message. If it’s a wifi camera, and it was working previously, it likely means that the camera or the display needs a reset.
You can check out some of our thoughts about wired vs wireless backup cameras here. Also check your fuses and the power cables for the camera. A fuse may have blown or a wire may have frayed and become disconnected.
If you have a wired backup camera, wiring is more likely the problem. Inspect your fuses to ensure everything is connected and not blown. Then trace the wiring and cables from the camera to the display.
If your display is embedded in the dashboard, start at the camera and work to the display, as removing a dashboard display can be a difficult process, and you only want to do it as a last resort.
Note: before you start troubleshooting the wiring, give the whole system a reset to make sure that it isn’t just a glitch.
Backup camera is displaying in black and white
Fraying wires or faulty connections can cause a flashing black and white backup camera. If your backup camera display is flashing or giving you black and white static, it’s likely the case that you have a fraying wire or a faulty connection.
Ensure all of the cables and connections in your backup camera system are fully connected and repair any damage.
Backup camera screen is black
If your screen is black the camera may not be set up properly. Try carefully re-reading your installation guide and consider that you may need to buy a new backup camera. If your display is not powering on at all, it’s likely a problem with the display, not the camera, so check the wiring diagrams of your car.
Plugging the camera into the AUX dash cable rather than video feed is a common problem with home installs. If your display is not powering on, it’s either improperly connected.
Battery disconnected now my alarm won’t shut off
If you notice that your car is frequently making this loud noise and trying to warn you of theft, even though there’s clearly nothing going on, it’s time to get to the bottom of the problem. A few things can lead to this quite irritating situation, which can even cause driving stress or even road rage if you drive a car that’s constantly blaring. Take your safety gloves and check the following issues:
The first step should always be checking the most common cause – the wireless remote or the fob, as well as the battery inside. Ensure that you didn’t hit the panic button by accident
If the remote works perfectly fine, it could be the hood latch sensor, which shows if your car’s hood is properly closed. If it isn’t properly maintained because of some damage or lack of cleaning, it could be the reason for occasional beeping
Reasons why your alarm is going off
Low Car Battery Charge Alarm
A dying battery can be the culprit behind your alarm turning on at random times. That’s why it’s a must for car owners to know their car’s battery condition. Usually, your battery sends a signal whenever you’re starting the engine.
If your battery is low on power, then the alarm will go off whenever you turn on your car. Think of it as the car letting you know that it’s time to replace it. You can check your battery’s condition by using a voltmeter. If the reading is under 12.6 volts, you should seriously consider replacing it.
Note: In case of a car breakdown, try to call a friend or get help from another vehicle to jump-start your car. That way, you can get enough charge for you to make it the safest location and replace it. Additionally, you can always call emergency roadside assistance in case you’re stranded in the middle of nowhere.
Corroded or Rusty Battery Terminals
On the condition that your battery counts on sufficient charge, then consider checking your battery terminals as well. If your battery has rusty terminals, it can trigger the alarm by sending a low battery signal to the system.
If the terminals are a little rusty, then you can fix yourself on your own by cleaning them. However, before proceeding, be sure to disconnect the battery and put on any safety wear. Feel free to use a quality battery cleaner to remove the corrosion. Ensure that your battery isn’t in contact for long periods with any grease or oil.
Broken Key Fob
When your car remote becomes faulty, it can make your car alarm go off randomly. After all, the remote, or key fob, has a connection with the alarm system. Since this remote works by sending signals to your car, a broken one can send the wrong alert.
One way to verify if it’s your key fob that’s causing the problem is by resetting it or changing its battery. You can also scan your remote with a code reader as well.
Dirty Hood Latch Sensor
Another common reason that might trigger your alarm is a filthy hood latch sensor. A hood latch keeps it closed shut and locked. When you open your car’s hood, the sensor is off and light up your dashboard warning sign. In case it’s closed, then the switch is on.
This switch can also tell you when the hood isn’t closed correctly. This sensor can make the alarm go off whenever someone tries to open the hood forcefully. However, if it has all sorts of dirt around it, then it can trigger the alarm at any time.
- Disconnect the battery’s negative terminal.
- Then, locate your hood latch sensor. It should be behind the hood latch, near the headlights.
- Use a cleaning brush, a microfiber cloth, and a brake cleaner to clean it.
- Spray a bit of your cleaner and use your brush to scrub it gently.
- Finally, use the cloth to completely remove any fine dust it may have.
Poor Connection to the Control Unit
If you cleaned the hood latch and the alarm still randomly triggers, then another cause can be a poor connection to your car’s main control unit. In some cases, then it can mean that it isn’t only your hood latch that’s put in jeopardy. If this is your situation, you probably see other incorrect readings, such as a wrong airbag light.
Try disconnecting and reconnecting the sensor to see if that works out. If not, then consider taking your car to a professional.
The Alarm was Installed Incorrectly
In some instances, car owners can find themselves with this problem because the alarm wasn’t set right in the first place. This situation usually happens when people get themselves a new car or an alarm system.
Sensitive Shock Sensors
When a car alarm goes off randomly, it can be due to sensitive shock sensors. These sensors job is to detect any impact that your car receives. Just liken the hood latch sensor, it can notify you whenever something bad happens to your vehicle.
When your shock sensors are too sensitive, it can set off your alarm to even the softest bumps. This problem can even make your battery out of charge much sooner than it should.
To check if your sensors are too sensitive, try gently bumping your vehicle. If the alarm goes off, then you should try readjusting them. You can find these sensors under the dashboard in a small control box that’s out of sight.
Configure them by twisting the dial that’s on the box. You can always refer to the owner’s manual whenever you find yourself stuck in a rut.
How to Disconnect the Alarm Using Your Key or the Remote
Roughly speaking, there are two answers to how to disable a car alarm – with or without the key. The simplest and usually the most effective solution you can try is manually locking and unlocking the driver’s door. A large number of factory alarms turn off once you put the key in the lock of driver’s or even passenger doors.
You can also try a similar method – pressing the lock or unlock button on the remote fob. Unlocking the doors with the right remote fob will shut down most fabric alarms. If that doesn’t do the trick, press the lock and then the unlock button while standing close enough to the automobile.
If you notice that you have to press the buttons on the remote fob multiple times before the doors lock or unlock, it’s possible that the battery inside is going dead and that it should be replaced.
If you accidentally pressed the yellow or orange panic button, know that these alarms stop after some time. If starting the vehicle doesn’t shut it off, the driving will.
How to Disconnect the Alarm Using the Ignition
One last thing left that you can do with your key is to start the engine. It can happen that the car’s alarm is connected to the engine immobilizer. This means that the system can get locked up and prevent you from turning the key once it’s in the ignition. Fortunately, there’s a solution for that as well – ignition should fix this and reset the system right away.
Another thing that you can do is to try is to open your trunk manually by putting the key into the trunk lock. If your car is wired in a way that the trunk area deactivates the warning system, then you have a winner.
If you have an aftermarket model, you’ll also need to reset it. Look for a switch and put it in the “on” position. Then press the gas pedal while the key is the ignition position. Once you hear fast beeps, you will know that the signaling device has been reset.
If you don’t succeed at first, try to repeat the action a few more times. It could just be the solution to your problems.
These are the quick fixes that will just disable the beeping immediately. If none of these options worked, that could mean that a more complicated problem exists.
How to Turn off a Car Alarm Without the Remote
Use the methods below to disconnect the alarm manually;
Disconnect the Car Alarm Fuse Box
The box you’re looking for is usually in the engine bay or in the cabin under the steering wheel on the left side of the steering column. If it’s in the cabin, put on the safety gloves and remove the trim so that you can access it. Remember that the trim is fragile, so be careful not to break it once you take it off. The next step is to get pliers or plastic tweezers and use them to cut the alarm’s circuit.
Once you pull out the fuse that sends electricity to this problematic system, the noise will stop immediately until you replace it. If you’re not sure which fuse is the right one, try pulling out one at a time and seeing whether the sound stops. Once it does, return it to the box. Keep in mind that the sound shouldn’t start again, but if it does, you will most likely have to take the vehicle to a professional mechanic.
Note: Don’t get confused if you see that your aftermarket fuse box doesn’t have fuses. If you bought and installed the system after you bought the car, keep in mind that the box is usually in the engine compartment.
If you can’t find it, consult a manual to see the right position of the correct fuse you need.
Disable a Car Alarm Permanently
If you’re wondering can you disable a car alarm permanently, the answer is yes, of course. There are simple instructions if you want to know how to disarm a car alarm completely. You should just unlock the door, start the car, remove the fuse, or detach the car battery. When working with electronics, it’s crucial that you guard yourself against injury. So take safety gloves and glasses, park your car on a solid, dry, and level surface and grab the owner’s manual. Only after you have your safety gear on, you can get on to business.
Detach the Battery
This is the only method left that we haven’t explained, and luckily you don’t have to pay someone to do this for you because there are some quite simple instructions. A detachment of batteries resets all of the electrical systems in the car, and they won’t start until it’s reconnected.
If you’re not too familiar with what’s under the hood of your automobile, the first step is to locate the battery. This vehicle part is in the engine compartment in most cases, but there are some models whose batteries are in the trunk. It can be next to your spare tire, under a piece of carpeted wood. There might also be some cover on top of it, so remove it carefully to gain access.
When you find it, follow the thick black cable that’s connecting the negative terminal to the body of the automobile. Then, detach the negative terminal from the ground wire. For that, you’ll have to use a wrench or pliers.
There’s no need to touch the positive cable. You will have to loosen the nut that is holding the black cable to the terminal so that you can slide the cable off. All the electronics in the car should be shut down at that moment. The system should be reset by now, but if the problem persists, do all of this again. That should do the trick.
Another thing that you can come across with aftermarket car alarms are small backup batteries, while most factory alarms don’t have them. They are used to keep the warning signals functioning after the battery for your car has been disconnected, but they can’t power the horns and lights for long.
The primary role of these backup batteries is to keep the signaling device in working condition while you work on your car, so you don’t have to reset anything when reconnecting the primary one. To locate these batteries, look up the user manual.
If you have factory-installed backup batteries, use the owner’s manual to see where it is and disable it. If you can’t find it, it will eventually die if detached from the primary one for too long.
How to Reconnect the Car Alarm
Once disconnected, batteries can’t be hooked back immediately. Wait for an hour before you reconnect the ground cable to the negative terminal again. The same nut that you loosened now must be tightened so that it secures the cable to the terminal.
Make sure that you did it right – it must be placed firmly. Thinking about that cable coming off in the middle of riding and shutting the car off can cause driving anxiety or even an accident, and you wouldn’t want that. If there was any kind of cover on top of the battery, place it back as it was. You can check if there are any issues left by starting the car.
The situation after connecting the batteries back is the same as with the fuse boxes – when you connect everything right, the sound should not start again. In case it does, you must call a professional to repair your four-wheeler.
Note: After trying out all of these solutions and still your car alarm goes off randomly, consider getting professional help. That way, an expert can exactly pinpoint what’s causing this kind of problem.
Toyota Tundra headlights won’t turn off automatically
The short-term solution for headlights that won’t turn off is to take emergency preventative measures to keep the battery from going dead. This can be accomplished in several ways:
- Disconnect the battery
- Remove the headlight fuse.
- Remove the headlight relay.
Possible Causes for Headlight Issues
Some of the issues that can cause car headlights not to turn off include problems with the following components:
- Headlight switch
- Daytime running light module
- Light sensor
- Relay
- Grounded wire
Properly diagnosing a headlight problem can be complicated because there are many types of headlight systems out there. For instance, some cars are designed so that when the engine is shut off while the headlights are on, they remain on for a specific amount of time. In that case, you might want to shut off the headlights before turning off the engine to see if that helps.
Other cars have daytime running lights, which automatically turn the headlights on—but don’t affect the dash lights—during the day. If that system fails, it may cause the headlights to remain on. You can set the parking brake to see if that shuts off the headlights, as setting the parking brake typically disables daytime running lights. Removing or replacing the daytime running light module will probably fix that problem.
Disconnect the Battery
The easiest way to keep your car battery from dying is to disconnect it. This involves literally disconnecting one of the battery cables from the battery, which requires an appropriately sized wrench or socket.
If you’ve never disconnected a battery before, it’s a good idea to disconnect the negative cable instead of the positive cable to avoid causing a short circuit.
The negative cable is typically black, while the positive cable is typically red. You can also look on the battery for a – symbol, which will be near the negative terminal, and a + symbol, which will be near the positive terminal.
After disconnecting the negative battery cable, move it away from the battery so that it doesn’t get nudged or bumped and come back into contact with the negative battery terminal.
Once the battery is disconnected, the headlights will turn off, and the battery won’t drain. Disconnecting the battery may erase the onboard computer’s memory, so it will have to go through a “relearning” process to correct the fuel economy.
If your car stereo has a security feature that requires a special code after a loss of power, find your car radio code before you disconnect the battery.
Remove the Fuse or Relay to Turn Off the Headlights
The other way to shut off the headlights is to remove the appropriate fuse or relay. This is a little more complicated than disconnecting the battery because you must locate the correct fuse panel and then figure out which fuse or relay to pull. This will prevent a loss of power to the computer and radio, though, so you won’t have to deal with any fallout later on.
Bad Relays
If a bad headlight relay is a reason your headlights won’t turn off, the fix is to replace the relay. This is a little easier to check since there’s a chance that multiple circuits may use the exact same type of relay.
If you can find another relay in your car that has the same part number as the headlight relay, you can remove your headlight relay, swap it for the identical one from a different circuit, and see if the headlights turn off normally. If the headlights turn off, you need to buy and install a new relay.
In the event that swapping relays doesn’t work, the problem may be a bad headlight switch, multifunction switch, or light sensor, and the diagnostic procedure will be more complex. You may be able to identify the problem by removing the component in question and checking for physical damage, but there won’t always be physical indicators.
For instance, a bad headlight switch that’s shorted internally may get hot enough to crack, melt, or burn the plastic housing or electrical connections, but that isn’t always the case.
If you aren’t able to identify the malfunctioning component, disable the headlights by disconnecting the battery or removing the appropriate fuse, waiting for daylight, and then taking your car to a trusted mechanic.
How long does a transmission last on a Toyota Tundra?
Transmissions on any vehicle will have different lifespans. Several factors go into the lifespan of a transmission. For the Tundra, it will depend on how it is used and treated. For example, if you use your Tundra frequently for towing, this can cause more wear and tear on the transmission than one used for daily driving.
Nonetheless, Toyota of Easley and Motor and Wheels state that the transmission on a Tundra can last anywhere between 100,000 and 200,000 miles. However, if you are looking to maximize the life of your Tundra’s information, make sure that it is appropriately serviced.