Nothing causes panic when driving, like running out of fuel in the middle of traffic. To avoid this, it is important to know your fuel status. So, figuring out your vehicle’s reserve tank capacity is necessary to avoid being stuck once fuel runs out.
Keep reading to learn how long you can drive after the fuel light comes on and how to improve fuel economy.
How much fuel is left when fuel indicator light comes on?
The quantity of fuel your gauge shows may not be the real amount left in the tank. Fuel gauges are measured by a float, which changes based on whether or not you’re on a hill.
Your warning light illuminates when fuel levels are low in your tank. When the fuel light turns red, it is an indication that the fuel has reached the reserve level, which is almost 10% to 15% of the total capacity of the chamber.
Each Dmax model has a different reserve tank size, but generally speaking, an Isuzu Dmax will have between 5 and 8 litresof fuel left when low fuel light comes on.
A simple procedure to check this is to go to the petrol station the instant you fall into low fuel light and examine the amount of fuel you put in your tank, then subtract it from the total tank size, and you will have the quantity of fuel your tank reserve can hold.
The engine of your Isuzu D-Max, may consume more or less fuel. For accurate figures, you need to be aware of your average consumption and to make the calculation to know exactly how many kilometres your car can run with the low fuel light warning on.
Whatever the case, generally, you can expect to cover between 80 and 100 kilometres with your Isuzu D-Max ‘s low fuel tank reserve mileage at a reasonable speed.
Typically, the fuel light comes on when you have ~30-40 mi/ 50–60km of fuel left. You can measure this for your car by seeing how many gl/L you fill your tank with minus the tank’s capacity when the light comes on * your avg mileage. Ex: you have a 10L tank. Your car says you average 40km/L. The light comes on and you fill up with 9L. You had 1L=40km left.
Isuzu D-MAX Fuel Consumption
Isuzu Dmax has an average fuel consumption of around 14 km/liter(7 liters/100km) on city roads and 15.3 km/litre (6.5 litres/100km) on highways. The fuel consumption of the Isuzu D-MAX is 8.3L/100km (the most fuel-efficient), and the highest fuel consumption is 8.3L/100km.
Fuel consumption is most intuitively measured as the fuel required to travel a unit distance, which is known as L/100 kilometers. The following formula is used to calculate fuel consumption in liters/100km, which is the most commonly used measure of fuel consumption.
(Liters used × 100) ÷km traveled = litres per 100 kilometers.
The fuel consumption of a car mainly depends on its power technology and size. These variables include:
- Road, traffic and weather conditions
- Driving style
- Vehicle speed, load and condition
Here are the fuel consumption for Isuzu D-MAX cars, according to Isuzu official:
| Model | Fuel Consumption |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Double Cab Basic 4WD (136 hp) 2007-2012 AWD EURO 4 III | 8.1 lt/100km (35 MPG) 12.1 lt/100km (23 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Double Cab Custom 4WD (136 hp) 2007-2012 AWD EURO 4 III | 8.1 lt/100km (35 MPG) 12.1 lt/100km (23 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Single Cab Basic 2WD (136 hp) 2007-2012 LKW | 7.4 lt/100km (38 MPG) 10.8 lt/100km (26 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Single Cab Basic 4WD (136 hp) 2009-2012 AWD LKW | 8.1 lt/100km (35 MPG) 12.1 lt/100km (23 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Space Cab Basic 4WD (136 hp) 2007-2012 AWD EURO 4 III | 8.1 lt/100km (35 MPG) 12.1 lt/100km (23 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Space Cab Custom 4WD (136 hp) 2007-2012 AWD EURO 4 III | 8.1 lt/100km (35 MPG) 12.1 lt/100km (23 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max Single Cab 1.9 Diesel 2WD 2WD (163 hp) 2017-2020 EURO 6 UNKLAR | 6.0 lt/100km (47 MPG) 8.7 lt/100km (33 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max Single Cab 1.9 Diesel 4WD 4WD (163 hp) 2017-2020 AWD EURO 6 UNKLAR | 7.0 lt/100km (40 MPG) 10.4 lt/100km (27 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max Space Cab 1.9 Diesel 4WD 4WD Automatic (163 hp) 2017-2020 AWD AUTOMATIC EURO 6 UNKLAR | 7.0 lt/100km (40 MPG) 10.5 lt/100km (27 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 1.9 Diesel Double Cab 4WD (163 hp) 2017-2018 AWD EURO6B | 7.0 lt/100km (40 MPG) 10.9 lt/100km (26 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 1.9 Diesel Double Cab 4WD Automatic (163 hp) 2017-2018 AWD AUTOMATIC EURO6B | 7.8 lt/100km (36 MPG) 12.0 lt/100km (23 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 1.9 Diesel Single Cab 2WD (163 hp) 2017-2018 LKW | 6.2 lt/100km (45 MPG) 9.2 lt/100km (31 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 1.9 Diesel Space Cab 4WD (163 hp) 2017-2018 AWD EURO6B | 7.0 lt/100km (40 MPG) 10.7 lt/100km (26 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 1.9 Diesel Space Cab 4WD Automatic (163 hp) 2017-2018 AWD AUTOMATIC EURO6B | 7.8 lt/100km (36 MPG) 11.8 lt/100km (24 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Double Cab 4WD (163 hp) 2012-2017 AWD EURO 5 | 7.4 lt/100km (38 MPG) 11.3 lt/100km (25 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Double Cab 4WD (163 hp) 2012-2017 AWD EURO 5 | 7.4 lt/100km (38 MPG) 11.3 lt/100km (25 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Double Cab 4WD Automatic (163 hp) 2012-2017 AWD AUTOMATIC EURO 5 | 8.4 lt/100km (34 MPG) 12.7 lt/100km (22 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Single Cab 2WD (163 hp) 2012-2017 LKW | 7.4 lt/100km (38 MPG) 10.8 lt/100km (26 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Single Cab 4WD (163 hp) 2012-2017 AWD LKW | 7.4 lt/100km (38 MPG) 11.1 lt/100km (25 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Space Cab 4WD (163 hp) 2012-2017 AWD EURO 5 | 7.4 lt/100km (38 MPG) 11.3 lt/100km (25 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Space Cab 4WD (163 hp) 2012-2017 AWD EURO 5 | 7.4 lt/100km (38 MPG) 11.3 lt/100km (25 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Space Cab 4WD Automatic (163 hp) 2012-2017 AWD AUTOMATIC EURO 5 | 8.4 lt/100km (34 MPG) 12.7 lt/100km (22 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Double Cab Basic 4WD (136 hp) 2007-2012 AWD EURO 4 III | 8.1 lt/100km (35 MPG) 12.1 lt/100km (23 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Double Cab Custom 4WD (136 hp) 2007-2012 AWD EURO 4 III | 8.1 lt/100km (35 MPG) 12.1 lt/100km (23 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Single Cab Basic 2WD (136 hp) 2007-2012 LKW | 7.4 lt/100km (38 MPG) 10.8 lt/100km (26 MPG) |
| Isuzu D-Max 2.5 Diesel Single Cab Basic 4WD (136 hp) 2009-2012 AWD LKW | 8.1 lt/100km (35 MPG) 12.1 lt/100km (23 MPG) |
Factors that affect fuel consumption
Below are some cause of poor fuel efficiency and solutions to help improve it;
Driving Style
Your driving style affects the fuel consumption. If you drive aggressively and do not shift gears to the lightest one, this will keep your engine revolutions high thus consuming a lot of fuel. And if you like to accelerate quickly, go fast and/or rev your engine, you are burning more fuel.
Always try to drive at a good distance from the car in front so you, so you can anticipate and move with the flow of traffic. This helps avoid unnecessary acceleration and repetitive braking that ends up wasting fuel.
Aggressive driving (speeding, rapid acceleration and braking) can lower your gas mileage by roughly 15% to 30% at highway speeds and 10% to 40% in stop-and-go traffic.
Aerodynamic Drag
Roof racks, roof-mounted cargo trays, ladder racks and even larger exterior mirrors all change the shape of your roof line and vehicle profile, creating additional drag, decreasing fuel economy.
Make sure you remove any unnecessary items from your roof racks or tub, and keep the vehicle clean—polished is best—to aid the slipstream effect. If towing a large van, a roofmounted scoop will help deflect wind over the van.
Driving at higher speeds increases aerodynamic drag (wind resistance), reducing fuel economy. The new EPA tests account for aerodynamic drag up to highway speeds of 80 mph, but some drivers exceed this speed. Drive sensibly if you want to conserve gas.
Excessive Idling
Excessive idling decreases MPG. When your car is parked, don’t let it idle for too long. Most cars don’t need more than 30 seconds to warm up in the morning and if you are sitting in your car running the engine while parked or waiting to pick someone up, it’s just wasting fuel. Turn your car off or put it in neutral unless you absolutely need the engine running.
Over Speeding
Vehicles are designed to be driven up to a certain speed, depending on their engine and power output. Over speeding and higher RPMs will always lead to higher fuel consumption. The higher the speed especially if it’s above 120 km/h, the more fuel you will consume.
Cold Weather
Cold weather can reduce fuel economy, since your engine doesn’t operate efficiently until it is warmed up. In colder weather, it takes longer for your engine to warm, and on short trips, your vehicle operates a smaller percentage of time at the desired temperature.
Note: Letting your car idle to warm-up doesn’t help your fuel economy. It actually uses more fuel and creates more pollution.
Clogged Or Damaged Fuel Injectors
Dirty fuel injectors are one of the most common causes of increased fuel consumption. When a fuel injector becomes dirty or clogged, it may spray fuel inefficiently, think of a poorly pressurized shower head. This can quickly reduce the efficiency of your engine and lower fuel economy. In many cases, the fuel injector nozzles can be cleaned.
In some cases, the injectors may need replacing if internal damage is causing a bad spray pattern. One of Fuel injectors are the nozzles that spray fuel into each engine cylinder. A fuel injector’s spray pattern must be very precise to properly mix with air and combust inside the engine.
Old Engine Air Filter
Engines must suck in air to power vehicles. If your engine air filter is particularly dirty or clogged, your engine won’t be able to “breathe.” To compensate, the older engines would burn more fuel to travel at the same speed. Newer engines may perform more poorly trying to compensate for a clogged air filter.
This problem is particularly common among older cars that rely on carburetors. Engine air filters should be replaced approximately every 15,000 to 30,000 miles, but check your owner’s manual to be sure or have it inspected at your next oil change.
Dirty Oxygen Sensor
A dirty oxygen sensor may lead to incorrect measurements that cause your engine to burn too much fuel, lowering efficiency by as much as 40% according to Edmunds. Faulty oxygen sensors are one of the most common causes of a check engine light and will likely need inspecting and possibly replacing before the 100,000-mile mark. Thankfully, O2 sensors are relatively affordable to replace, helping you save on gas and keep your vehicle’s emissions in check.
Whereas many older cars use carburetors to ensure the engine receives the proper ratio of air-to-fuel for combustion, all newer cars since about 1996 use oxygen sensors instead. An O2 sensor measures how rich or lean the exhaust gases are that exit your engine and sends a message to your car’s computer to adjust how much fuel enters the engine.
Clogged Fuel Filter
Fuel filters block contaminants in the fuel from traveling throughout the engine where they could damage fuel injectors and other important parts. A clogged fuel filter can lower fuel pressure and cause your engine to run poorly.
For older cars especially, it’s important that fuel filters get changed approximately every two years or every 30,000 miles. If you suspect a dirty fuel filter to be the cause of your decreased gas mileage, bring your car into your local Firestone Complete Auto Care for a fuel pressure test.
Worn Out Piston Rings
The piston rings in your engine cylinders form a seal against the cylinder walls to create compression. When piston rings become worn out, they aren’t able to create that seal and the engine loses pressure. As a result, fuel efficiency goes out the window.
Engine oil not only helps lubricate the piston rings, it also contributes to fuel efficiency. The best solution is to make sure your car has regular oil changes with the manufacturer-recommended oil type found in your owner’s manual.
Bad Ignition System Parts
The ignition system includes coils, spark plugs, and wires that are responsible for combusting the air-fuel mixture in the engine. If any of these parts are malfunctioning, it may be causing the engine to misfire. A misfire occurs when the fuel in an engine cylinder does not combust. Since unburnt fuel cannot power your vehicle, this ends up wasting gas and lowering your fuel economy.
You may experience rough idling, stumbling, or an overall decrease in power from the engine if the ignition system is to blame. The most common culprit inside a failing ignition system is the spark plugs.
Old Or Incorrect Engine Oil
There’s a common myth that older cars should use thicker engine oil to prevent leaks. The thinking goes that since internal seals and gaskets become brittle and shrink with age, thicker oil would be less likely to seep through the cracks.
Specially formulated “high mileage engine oils” can do this by using seal conditioning additives to help older seals become more flexible and do a better job sealing. In addition, the viscosity is slightly increased to help worn piston rings seal better. However, thicker oil actually creates more resistance between engine parts, which lowers fuel efficiency.
The right motor oil is essential to keeping modern engines lubricated and protected. The best thing you can do to keep your car’s gas mileage up is to perform regular oil changes with the type of oil specified in your owner’s manual. High mileage engine oils may help reduce oil leaking and oil consumption but it will take away some of the potential fuel efficiency.
Dirty Mass Airflow Sensor
Mass airflow sensors measure the amount of air flowing into the engine. Like an oxygen sensor, the mass airflow sensor sends data to the onboard computer to calculate the correct air-to-fuel ratio in the engine and the computer adjusts fuel injection accordingly. However, a dirty airflow sensor will cause the car’s computer to miscalculate the proper air-fuel mixture, leading to decreased fuel efficiency or even engine stall. Mass airflow sensors should be cleaned with a special cleaning spray.
Tire Pressure
Low-pressure tires are a common cause of worsening MPG because an underinflated tire has increased rolling resistance with the road and a slightly smaller effective diameter. Modern cars come with a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) to notify drivers when their tires need more pressure, but the warning is only triggered after a significant loss of PSI. Even running five PSI below recommended pressure is enough to create drag and lower fuel economy even if the TPMS doesn’t yet display a warning.
If your tires are not at the correct air pressure, you will lose fuel economy. This is the case if they are underinflated, overinflated or each tire has a different pressure. The panel inside your driver’s side door will show you the ideal air pressure. Do not go based on the “max pressure” as listed on the tires themselves.
One of the easiest things you can do to keep up fuel efficiency is to regularly check your tire pressure and top-up with air as needed. Another smart option is to use tires, which are made with fuel economy in mind. Tires that feature a low rolling resistance tread designed to help you save both money and fuel with fewer trips to the gas pump. Fuel efficient tires go a long way towards a greener, more cost-effective ride.
Rolling Resistance
Speaking of resistance, your vehicle’s tires play a huge role in how easy your car cruises down the highway. All tires generate a certain amount of rolling resistance—or the amount of effort it takes to roll across the driving surface. While most people tend to think of their tires as perfectly round, the truth is where the rubber contacts the road is actually a flat spot the size of your hand.
The weight of the vehicle pressing down on the tire generates these contact patches, and while a larger contact patch usually equates better handling and control, it can also negatively affect your fuel economy.
Tire manufacturers are increasingly looking at how best to reduce rolling resistance while still offering plenty of grip. Altering tread patterns and rubber compounds have helped to produce tires that require less work to get rolling, and car manufacturers are taking advantage of the technology.
Altitude
Altitude affects fuel economy. There’s less oxygen at 10,000 ft than there is at sea level, meaning that for each stroke of your motor, your car takes in less oxygen, and thus produces less power. Less power means you’re more likely to get into the throttle and stay there—using more fuel than you normally would.
For this reason, turbocharged vehicles tend to do better in higher altitude because they can force more air into the combustion chamber and generate plenty of power. Doing so keeps drivers from planting their right foot on the floorboard for extended periods of time, saving fuel even if it’s an older turbo.
Displacement
The volume of air that the engine consumes in a single revolution is known as displacement. The more air that needs to be pushed while the engine is in movement, the more energy the engine requires. This measure is usually expressed in liters. The higher the number, the more fuel the engine burns while it’s in movement.
Weight
A vehicle’s weight influences how much energy it needs to move, which, of course, can require more or less fuel, depending on the case. Not only does a compact weigh much less than a truck or an SUV, its size also means it can afford to have a smaller engine that doesn’t have to work as hard to move the vehicle forward. Between two vehicles of the same size, the materials from which components are created usually determine which vehicle weighs less.
Aerodynamic efficiency
Throughout the years, the word “Aerodynamic” has been used as a marketing buzzword. But what is aerodynamic efficiency, and how does it affect fuel economy? Well, it’s simple. Air, like liquid, offers resistance when you move.
Curves and a well-designed shape can minimize this resistance, also known as drag. On the other hand, a fairly tall vehicle with few curves, like a truck, will use more fuel to move through the air. If a vehicle’s exterior seems strange, it’s possible that it was designed to reduce drag as much as possible.
Mechanical resistance
Mechanical resistance refers to the vehicle’s energy required to move all the different pieces in the drivetrain. The transmission, wheel bearings, axels and multiple other components all contribute when a car is in motion. All of these systems can be refined to minimize the amount of power each individual piece needs to move. For example, a manual transmission will generally produce less resistance than an automatic model.
Worn Or Stuck Brakes
Not only is it dangerous to drive with worn-out brake parts, but sticky brakes could also be causing your MPG to plummet. For example, a stuck caliper or sticky brake pads create resistance to your vehicle’s forward motion.
Brake drag means your engine must constantly fight with the brakes to move, causing fuel efficiency to drop dramatically. Be sure to check your brakes regularly — or simply bring your car into Firestone for a comprehensive brake inspection.
Poor Alignment
If you’ve been driving for a while with a steering wheel that doesn’t sit straight, chances are your wheel alignment is costing you money at the pump. Just like with low-pressure tires, misaligned wheels create resistance to traveling straight down the road. Constantly fighting this resistance requires more effort from the engine and hurts fuel economy.
Frequent Start/ Stops and Short Distance Traveling
Vehicles generally are least fuel efficient at the start of trips and on short trips. One reason for this is that catalytic converters (which reduce air pollution emissions) do not operate properly until they have warmed up.
Trips of less than 5 km usually do not allow the engine to reach its peak operating temperature, so plan your trips accordingly. It should also be noted that keeping your car idle just to warm-up the engine doesn’t help your fuel economy as this way it actually consumes more fuel.
Driving in Wrong Gears
This mostly applies to manual cars because automatic transmissions shift up more quickly and smoothly if you ease back slightly on the accelerator once the car gathers momentum. Certain speeds are supposed to be driven in certain gears.
If you are driving at 70 km/h in third gear, then you will need more energy from the engine to move the vehicle compared to driving at same speed in fourth gear, hence consuming more fuel.
Driving in a gear lower than you need wastes fuel, and letting the engine labor in higher gears on hills and corners is also wasteful. In a manual vehicle, it’s always a good idea to change up gears as soon as the car is comfortable with the higher gear but without accelerating harder than necessary.
If your car has manual transmission (stick shift), make sure to use the appropriate gear. If you’re pulling heavy loads, you should use a lower gear, so your engine doesn’t have to work harder than it needs to. Similarly, make sure to use a higher gear when traveling at faster speeds. The long and short is this: listen to your engine. If it sounds like it is overworking or underworking, you are probably wasting gas.
Bad/ Worn-out Clutch Plate
A worn-out or continuously slipping clutch plate can substantially affect the mileage. Slipping means insufficient contact between a clutch and pressure plate. Slipping of the clutch converts some of the engine power to be lost as friction. Since power is not fully converted hence the vehicle uses more energy to move which amounts to using more fuel.
Fuel Variations
Some fuels contain less energy than others. Using oxygenated fuels or reformulated gasoline (RFG), for example, can cause a small decrease (1%–3%) in fuel economy. Most of the gasoline now sold has a small amount of ethanol in it—up to 10% by volume depending upon the region.
Using gasoline with 10% ethanol decreases fuel economy by 3%–4%. The energy content of gasoline varies seasonally. Typical summer conventional gasoline contains about 1.7% more energy than typical winter conventional gasoline.
Faulty Engine/ Components
If an engine is not tuned properly or the maintenance service delayed, it will lead to a decline in the engine’s fuel efficiency. Simple maintenance such as regular oil changes, air-filter changes, and spark plug replacements will lengthen the life of your vehicle as well as improve fuel economy.
Failure to replace worn out spark plugs, air cleaner elements or fuel filters as well as improper maintenance of the throttle valve and oxygen sensors will lead to an increase in fuel consumption.
Your spark plugs provide the combustion within in your engine. If they are misfiring or not working properly, your fuel economy will definitely be affected.
Vehicle Variations
Small variations in the way vehicles are manufactured and assembled can cause MPG variations among vehicles of the same make and model. Usually, differences are small, but a few drivers will see a marked deviation from the EPA estimates.
Engine Break-in
New vehicles will not obtain their optimal fuel economy until the engine has broken in. This may take 3–5 thousand miles.
Extra cargo
Cargo or cargo racks on top of your vehicle (e.g., cargo boxes, canoes, etc.) increase aerodynamic drag and lower fuel economy. MPG tests do not account for this type of cargo. Towing a trailer or carrying excessive weight decreases fuel economy. Vehicles are assumed to carry only three hundred pounds of passengers and cargo during testing.
Air conditioner
Running electrical accessories (e.g., air conditioner) decreases fuel economy. Operating the air conditioner on “Max” can reduce MPG by roughly 5%–25% compared to not using it.
The more you run your A/C, the lower gas mileage you will get. It’s a simple fact, so just know that any time you turn on the air conditioner and try to avoid cranking it all the way up on hot days.
On really hot days, using the air conditioning can put a lot of strain on your engine and hurt your fuel efficiency. To alleviate this problem, crack a window until your car’s internal temperature is at or lower than the exterior temp. Keep in mind, however, that it’s better to keep the windows closed when you’re driving at highway speeds because it reduces the amount of drag on your vehicle.
Rough terrain
Driving on hilly or mountainous terrain or on unpaved roads can reduce fuel economy. The EPA test assumes vehicles operate on flat ground.
4WD Feature
Using 4-wheel drive reduces fuel economy. Four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in 2-wheel drive. Engaging all four wheels makes the engine work harder and increases transfer case and differential losses.
Vehicle Maintenance
A poorly tuned engine burns more fuel. Poor tire condition also affects fuel consumption. Improperly aligned or inflated tires can lower fuel economy by increasing rolling resistance.
Does driving on reserve fuel damage your car?
Yes. Driving on empty tank can lead to several problems. When your car runs out of petrol, the fuel pump can suck in the pollutant/dirt from the bottom of the tank, thereby clogging the fuel pump which can lead to loss in power, decreased fuel efficiency, or a stalling engine. Ultimately leading to damage of other engine components which will end up being costly to repair and replace.
It may also lead to the problems below;
Overheating of the Electric Pump Engines
When the car runs out of fuel, the engine starts to overheat and the windings begin to melt. Gas makes its way from the tank of a car to its engine via electric fuel pump. When you fill up your tank, gas enters the fuel pump through a part called the strainer and moves through another round pump before finally entering the electric pump engine to cool its copper windings.
When your car is out of fuel, air cools the windings, instead of gas, which makes the engine overheat and the windings melt. This is why you’ll often hear experts talking about how a pump running on an empty “stomach” is not a good thing. Along with the fact that it cools the engine, gas also lubricates its rotating parts, thus preventing the engine from wearing out.
Fuel Injection System Corrosion
When your tank is empty for the most part, condensation kicks in due to the difference in temperatures, which causes the corrosion of the fuel injection system, which further leads to problems with your engine running properly. Transition weather periods are the ones to look out for, when the daytime temperatures rise above 10 degrees Celsius and the night-time temperatures drop below 0 degrees Celsius.
This particularly affects cars with tank volumes of up to 100 liters, which, as a consequence, turn into empty barrows full of condensate. This problem becomes even more evident with older cars whose tanks are made of tin, unlike the tanks of modern cars, which are made of plastic.
Tin, affected by the aforementioned condition, corrodes and mixes with the gas, which very often leads to a pump breakdown due to which, at high speeds, which stimulate an increased fuel flow through the injection system, the car can cancel on you in traffic.
Clogging Up Filters
The less fuel there is, the bigger the concentration of residue inside the fuel tank. When the fuel tank is full, the concentration of residue is inconsiderable. For example, when it comes to a 50- or 60-liter volume, the concentration of residue of about 50 ml won’t cause any problems.
However, when running on only 5 liters of gas, the concentration of residue goes up by 10, which increases the possibility of the engine drawing residue. So, although residue is an unavoidable element of every tank, its concentration is smaller when there’s more gas in the tank, which prevents the filters and electric pump from getting clogged up.
When you’re running low on gas, the engine draws residue from the bottom of the tank, which clogs up the filters and electric pump. When this happens, driving your car becomes increasingly difficult because the engine isn’t receiving enough gas.
If you have to drive on reserve, stick to the following instructions:
- Drive economically while maintaining a speed of 64 to 80 kilometers per hour, where it’s allowed, of course, and avoid sudden braking and acceleration;
- Try to maintain a speed which keeps your engine running between 2.000 and 3.000 revolutions per minute;
- Turn off your engine during stops for the purpose of saving gas, but only if your stops are more than a minute long, seeing it as starting a car uses the equivalent of about a minute’s worth of fuel with the engine at 2.500 revolutions per minute.