A weak car AC compressor is the leading cause of all your AC problems. Not only does it impact airflow, but it can also lead to engine damage due to overheating. As such, you should always look for signs of a failing air conditioner compressor.
Keep reading to learn what a bad AC compressor noise means and how to remedy the issue and other air conditioner-related issues.
What causes car AC compressor failure?
These are the common issues that cause AC compressor failure:
1. Dirt accumulation.
When dust, grime, and mineral scales build up in the condenser, the air conditioner can’t expel enough heat and is forced to run constantly to cool your car. The increased pressure and temperature can cause the compressor to overheat and fail.
Blocked suction lines.
When your air conditioner’s refrigerant lines become blocked or damaged, you’ll first notice that the unit is not cooling as effectively. If the problem is not fixed, the increased pressure and temperature again cause overheating and AC compressor failure.
Low refrigerant .
The air conditioner leaks refrigerant if your system’s refrigerant lines develop holes or cracks. After a while, the level becomes so low that the compressor has to work harder to pump enough refrigerant through the system to cool your space. The strain can eventually cause the compressor to break down.
Leaks.
If your refrigerant line develops leaks and needs to be replaced, make sure you get an experienced car AC technician to do the job. A too large or too small line for your system can cause premature AC compressor failure.
Too much refrigerant.
Suppose a less-than-qualified person works on your air conditioner and inadvertently adds too much refrigerant, or even the wrong type of refrigerant. In that case, it can be a deadly mistake for the compressor.
Electrical problems.
An electrical failure can result in a build-up of acids that cause a great deal of damage to other parts and the compressor. If you have a failed compressor, make sure the technician tests for the presence of these acids. Also, have your mechanic check your AC and repair damaged wiring, fuses, and contractors before they take down your system and cause AC compressor failure.
Contaminants in the system.
The high heat and pressure in an air conditioning system can introduce any number of contaminants that can cause damage. These include air, moisture, dirt, debris, leaves, soot, acids, and even bird and pest droppings.
Inadequate oil lubricant.
To take the heart comparison a step further, think of your air conditioner’s oil lubricant as the blood in your body. If not enough, the system can’t work properly, and all kinds of problems can result, including AC compressor failure. When a trained AC professional regularly maintains your system, he will check the lubricant levels and the condition of the oil pump to prevent this problem.
Symptoms Of Bad AC Compressor
Below are the main Bad AC compressor symptoms you should be on the lookout for;
1. Higher Temperatures Than Normal In The Cabin
One of the first signs to recognize symptoms of a bad AC compressor is the AC no longer blows as cold as it did. A damaged or failing compressor will not be able to regulate the refrigerant flow in the AC system properly, and as a result, the AC will not function properly.
You may notice that the degree inside the car increases, and the airflow from the AC is hot. This could be due to; low refrigerant, refrigerant leak, and a damaged AC compressor.
2. Loud Noise When Compressor Is Running
When the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning tends to have some noise when kicking on and off. But the loud noise when the AC switches on is another potential symptom of a bad AC compressor. The AC compressor has several interior components and uses a sealed bearing to turn.
If any interior components break or the compressor’s internal bearings fail or seize, all sorts of noises can be produced. The most valuable solution is changing the whole AC compressor.
3. Moisture Leaks
Most people who wonder what a bad ac compressor sounds like don’t know about moisture leaks in the AC compressor. The refrigerant helps the AC unit turn warm air into cold air; if it runs out of this chemical, your . So when the refrigerant leaks out, it not only increases the potentially harmful health concerns but also increases your energy consumption.
4. Compressor Clutch Is Not Moving
The compressor’s clutch allows the pulley to engage and disengage from engine power so that the compressor is only turning when needed. The clutch keeps the compressor activated, if it breaks, the compressor will not be able to receive the engine power anymore.
At the mechanic, the repairman will check the serious level of the compressor clutch, then they may decide to replace the clutch only or the whole compressor. Since it is possible to replace the clutch, it will reduce the cost for replacement.
5. Broken Suction Lines
The refrigerant line in the AC system can be blocked if the compressor fails to operate, resulting in hot airflow in the car. You can fix this problem by taking your car to the mechanic. The repairman knows how to remedy this issue by unblocking the refrigerant lines, but if he’s not successful, the lines will need to be replaced.
6. Damaged Wire
When you do the maintenance at home, you may notice the damaged wiring. It is a bad ac compressor symptom. Damaged wiring presents a huge safety concern because it can easily lead to an electrical fire. When an AC unit is exposed to electrical problems, it can lead to the compressor receiving too much or too little voltage. This quickly damages the compressor and results in the replacement of a new AC compressor.
AC compressor stays on all the time
Common causes of this include;
Auto-climate control
If you have auto-climate control on, the AC compressor will run continuously, summer and winter, if the auto-climate control is on any setting other than off.
Low refrigerant level
If the amount of refrigerant in the AC compressor reservoir is reduced, most likely due to a leak in the coils, the compressor might not have enough refrigerant to run the AC effectively. Due to this inefficiency, the AC compressor will have to work harder than usual.
In this case, you’ll likely need a professional to find and repair the leak and restore the refrigerant to the correct level.
Dirty or blocked condenser
A condenser full of dirt and debris will not work as effectively as normal to cool down the compressed and hot refrigerant that passes through, resulting in the AC compressor having to overwork.
Dirty evaporator coil
Similar to the condenser, the evaporator coil may be covered with dirt and debris, impeding its drying process and the system’s overall cooling process, thus making the AC compressor work harder to cool your car’s interior.
How To Replace the Air Conditioner Compressor
Start by finding the car AC compressor location. Then follow the steps below to replace you air compressor;
Note: When you replace the AC compressor, keep all the bolts and parts you remove in a safe place.
Unbolt the compressor
Get to your car’s battery and take off the negative terminal so you don’t get any short circuit. There may be other accessories or parts, and you can see the compressor beneath them. Take off all these accessories by using the right wrenches and take off the bolts and wiring.
Items needed
- Jack and jack stands
- Protective gloves
- Repair manuals
- Safety glasses
- Wrench
Note: Be sure to wear protective gloves and safety glasses before working.
- Locate the serpentine belt tensioner. If you have a difficult time finding the tensioner, consult the belt routing diagram.
- This can typically be found on a decal in the engine compartment or the vehicle repair manual.
- Rotate the tensioner. Use a socket or wrench to slide the automatic tensioner away from the belt.
- Whether this is clockwise or counterclockwise depends on the vehicle and belt routing.
- Remove the belt from the pulleys. Then, while holding the tensioner away from the belt, slide the belt off the pulleys.
- Disconnect the electrical connectors from the compressor. These should pull out easily.
- Disconnect the pressure hoses from the compressor. Using a ratchet or wrench, disconnect the pressure hoses from the compressor.
- Plug them to prevent system contamination.
- Remove the compressor mounting bolts. Using a ratchet or wrench, remove the compressor mounting bolts.
- Remove the compressor from the vehicle. It should come out with a little tugging, but be careful because it is often heavy.
- You would find an electrical connector too near the compressor. Using the screwdriver, you can unbolt this connector easily. Next, locate the high and low side refrigerant line and loosen the bolts there.
- You need to grip this line and slightly twist while pulling it upward and disconnect. You should remove both high and low side fittings at this point.
Note: Some tensioners will have a square hole to insert a ratchet end rather than a bolt head for a socket or wrench.
Take off all the accessories or parts
Remove the car battery carefully and the negative terminal too. Then remove the lower and upper mounting bolts and perform the removal using a universal joint socket or small wrench.
You will see the last mounting bolt before grasping the compressor and taking it off the vehicle. You may also need to hold the compressor while removing that last bolt; do it carefully without hurting the unit or yourself.
Inspect the Removed Compressor
It is wise to check the old compressor unit before throwing it away. This way, you can determine the issue or what made it fail. For example, if you turn the clutch, you can hear a grinding sound, which means the system contains foreign metal debris that must be flushed out.
Get an AC system flush kit from any local or reliable store and unblock the expansion valve or orifice tube. Check the refrigerant lines and exhaust ports for any metal and clean them.
If the expansion valve seems to be completely blocked, it is best to replace the same.
Inspect other AC components
For the car ac compressor replacement, get a new compressor unit. It can vary in design if it is upgraded, but the universal installation process remains the same. First, evaluate the intake and exhaust sides of the refrigerant ports.
Then check the belt pulley for the number of ribs and the outside diameter. Use the mounting bolts from the old unit and transfer them to the new one.
Adding compressor oil to the unit is important too. As some unit comes with pre-added oil, always check the user guide of the unit and determine if you need to fill oil. If the expansion valve seems to be completely blocked, it is best to replace the same
Replace the Old O Rings
Use a small screwdriver or pick to remove the O-rings from the A/C pressure lines. Some compressors will come with replacement O-rings, or you can get replacements from your local auto parts store. Then, slide the new O-rings into place.
Those high and low side lines use the O rings to create a sealed environment against leaks. For the auto ac compressor replacement, you should also replace the O rings to ensure that no future leaks occur.
Get to both high and low side lines and carefully remove the O rings. Next, get your new O rings; they should match the old ones exactly in diameter and length. You think about keeping the old O rings, but in most cases, it is not a good idea to do so.
Take the O rings and carefully slide them on the sidelines. Once they sit securely, apply peg oil over the O rings to complete the installation.
Install the New Compressor
- Clear the path where you are going to place the new compressor.
- Lower the new compressor into the vehicle and align it with the mounting holes.
- Use your hands to place the mounting bolts into the unit and later secure the unit with a wrench or socket.
- Reinstall the mounting bolts. Reinstall the mounting bolts and tighten them down.
- Reinstall the lines. Reinstall the lines and tighten down the bolts the line bolts.
- Reinstall the electrical connectors. Reinstall the electrical connectors as they originally were.
- Position the belt on the pulleys. Position the belt on the pulleys, following the belt routing diagram to ensure the belt is routed correctly.
- Install the new belt. Push or pull the tensioner to a position that allows the belt to be installed onto the pulleys.
- Once the belt is in place, you can release the tensioner and remove your tool.
- Have a professional recharge the system. Have the system recharged by a professional.
- Get to the high and low side refrigerant and install both lines; make sure the bolts are tightened. Put everything back in order, such as the electrical connector and any accessories you removed.
How to test a car AC compressor
If your car’s air conditioner (AC) stops blowing cold air and appears to only blow air, it may be low on Freon or require a new AC compressor. Testing the AC compressor is relatively simple; you must follow a few simple steps to determine whether the compressor requires repair or replacement.
Depending on how your diagnosis plays out, you can use a multimeter to check the power supply to the AC compressor clutch and pressure switches. Then repair /replace these components if you don’t get the right results from them. But, of course, the best policy is to replace the AC compressor entirely.
Using a multimeter
Detach the power connector from the AC compressor clutch, place your positive multimeter probe on one of the connector terminals, and place the negative probe on your negative battery post. If you don’t get any voltage, then the power supply to the compressor clutch is bad and needs to be checked.
Check For Burns and Other Physical Damages.
For this physical inspection and to avoid electrical shocks and hazards, the first step is to turn off the energy circuit supplying current to your air conditioning unit. You then unscrew and remove the faceplate or access panel covering the conditioning unit to reveal its internal components.
Inspect all the wires and internal pieces for burn marks and physical damage. Then proceeded to run a series of tests on the AC compressor clutch.
Examine Ground and Energy at The AC Compressor Clutch
This first diagnosis aims to reveal the condition of your compressor clutch coils.
Set the multimeter to DC voltage and disconnect the connector from the AC compressor clutch.
Place your positive multimeter lead on one of the connector terminals and connect the negative lead to the negative post of your battery.
If you don’t receive voltage, alter the position of your positive lead to other terminals, or subsequently, change the position of your negative lead to the other battery post.
Eventually, getting a voltage from one of these positions means that your compressor clutch coil is the likely culprit, and you need to repair or replace it.
Test Power Supply to AC Compressor Clutch
A zero-voltage value from your meter indicates that your problem is with the power supply to the AC compressor clutch.
There are certain ways to pinpoint the exact cause of your problem;
- Firstly, connect the positive probe to each of terminal 2 and terminal 3 of the compressor clutch (test them separately) and connect the negative probe to the negative post of your battery.
- If you don’t get any reading from these, then the fuse and wiring to the relay may be bad and need to be changed.
- If you got a voltage reading, place your negative probe on terminal 3 and your positive probe on terminal 4 of the connector.
- A zero reading from the meter means that your PCM may be the issue, as it is not well grounded to the control relay spiral. This leads us to our next tests.
Check Connectors on The Pressure Switch
When the previous test points to problems with your PCM grounding to the control relay coil, there are two main causes.
- Your refrigerant is almost finished or
- Your compressor pressure is at its maximum due to a faulty TMX valve or obstructed openings.
Note: the low refrigerant may be caused by your Freon (another name for refrigerant) running out, and an overfilled tank may cause high pressure.
The AC pressure switch is a pair of switches with valves located before and after the AC compressor. This component helps to regulate the refrigerant supplied from the air tanks and turns off the compressor when conditions become favorable or extreme.
If these switches are bad, you may have extremely low or high-pressure activity, causing the compressor not to work.
To test the switches;
- You first want to check their connectors.
- Disconnect the power connector, place the multimeter probes on the positive and negative connector terminals, and put your car AC to its maximum strength.
- If you don’t get a reading, the connector wires are bad, and you must run repairs or change them.
- If you get a value between 4V and 5V, the problem may be with the switch itself, and you proceed to run a continuity test on it.
- Measure Ohm Resistance Within The Switches
- For the low switch, turn your multimeter dial to the Ohms (resistance) setting (represented by Ω), place any multimeter probe on terminal 5 of the switch, and place the other probe on terminal 7.
- If you get a beep or a value close to 0 Ohms, there is continuity.
- If you get a reading of “OL”, there is an open loop in its circuit and it has to be changed.
- These are the same for the high-pressure counterpart, except that you place your multimeter leads on terminal 6 and terminal 8 of the switch instead.
- If the switch is bad, you are more likely to get an infinite Ohm reading (1) on the multimeter.
Troubleshooting steps to diagnose a car aircon compressor problems
Follow these steps to find out if your AC compressor is failing;
Step 1: With the engine running, turn on the A/C onto high.
This will cause the car air con to start, activating the aircon compressor.
The car aircon compressor will suck refrigerant in from the evaporator under low pressure, compress it, and forward it to the condenser under high temperature and high pressure.
Step 2: Listen for any unusual noises.
Unusual noises can arise in a number of ways, so check the following before concluding that you need a new car air con compressor. The car aircon compressor is driven by a belt. If the belt, clamping device, tensioner pulleys, or clutch are worn, they could cause unusual noises.
- Check the clamps and fixing points for breaks, cracks, and any missing nuts or bolts.
- Check the hoses and lines to determine if vibrations from the engine are being transmitted to the cabin. Hold each line with one hand to see if it eliminates the suspicious noise.
If none of these are causing the unusual noise, it’s best to get the vehicle checked out by a Natrad technician. The noise could be caused by excessive high pressure in the system or the air conditioner refrigerant contamination. These issues need to be diagnosed by a licensed air con technician.
Step 3: Check if cool air comes from the vents.
If there isn’t cool air coming from the vents, there are a few checks you can start with to rule out a compressor issue:
- Check that the cooling fans are running when the air conditioner is on.
- Make sure the cabin air filter isn’t clogged.
- Ensure there isn’t a build-up of leaves, bugs, or dirt preventing airflow through the condenser.
Step 4: Check for a visible leak under the car.
If you have a leak or rule out the above possible issues, you’ll need to take your vehicle to a licensed repair technician who will test the system to diagnose the problem.
Where is the AC compressor located in a car?
A/C compressor will usually be located somewhere on the auxiliary drive belt. It will have 2 refrigerant pipes connected to the body of it and an electrical plug to provide power.
The AC compressors are usually located towards the bottom of the engine, below your alternator and power steering pump, so you may check from underneath your vehicle to see the compressor. The A/C compressor will be located at the front of the engine with the rest of the belt-driven accessories.
How to tell if your AC compressor is leaking
If the fluid leaks out of the AC compressor, you must repair your vehicle’s air conditioner. Here are common signs your AC compressor is leaking;
Noises
If the fluid leaks out of your vehicle’s AC compressor, you may hear noises and rattling as the compressor runs dry and lacks the lubrication it needs to run smoothly. Some compressors make more noise than others, but pay close attention if your vehicle’s air-conditioning system begins making knocking noises or metallic or grinding noises, as these can indicate low coolant and a compressor that is about to stop functioning.
Seized Compressor
Both oil and coolant circulate through the AC compressor, so if the fluids leak out, the compressor may seize up and stop working completely. If the compressor seizes up, the air conditioner will no longer cool the car, and you may hear squealing noises from the belts as they attempt to turn the seized-up compressor.
Visible Leaks
Leaks can occur both externally and internally around your AC compressor. External leaks commonly occur around the compressor shaft seal, hoses, O-rings, gaskets, condenser, connectors, or evaporator. Examine all these areas thoroughly if you believe your AC compressor is losing fluids.
Visible leaks can be hard to detect, so you may need a dye or an electronic leak detector to pinpoint the leak’s location. In addition, you may be unable to detect internal compressor leaks without physically taking the compressor apart.
A vehicle’s air conditioner keeps the cabin cool and comfortable on hot days. To do that effectively requires the correct level of refrigerant in the system. Since refrigerant is not “consumed” or used up in the normal process of cooling a vehicle, If a system is low on refrigerant, it’s because there is a leak.
A refrigerant leak can occur at any point in the air conditioning process, so it’s sometimes difficult to pinpoint the exact location of the leak, but if you understand the underlying cause of the leak, preventing them may become a bit easier.
Causes of Air Conditioning Leaks
There are a few main causes of AC system leaks:
Wear and Tear
Wear and tear of the rubber parts of your system is the most common cause of leaks. While much of your air conditioning system is made of metal, including the high-pressure lines, parts of the system are rubber. There are rubber seals/O-rings put in place to prevent leaks, but over time—and with exposure to heat and moisture.
They can degrade, dry out and crack, allowing refrigerant to leak slowly. Ideally, these parts will be removed and replaced with new ones, but an alternative that often works just as well is to recondition and seal them with one of FJC’s stop leak products.
Moisture
If the rubber in a hose, seal or other component breaks down, as discussed above, it should be taken care of as soon as possible. Neglecting to do so might allow moisture in to contaminate the system. In addition, when moisture mixes with refrigerant, an acid is formed which can break down other system components such as the receiver/dryer or accumulator or can cause tiny pin hole leaks—a much more complex and costly repair than a simple O-ring replacement or rubber leak seal.
Exposure to Road Salt & Brine
In Spring many people find that their A/C is not functioning properly. That can be caused by road salt and brine used in the winter to melt icy roads. In addition, unintended deposits of sodium chloride, combined with water, can cause corrosion to the metal parts of a system and shorten its life span.
For this reason, washing your vehicle as soon as possible after each snow or ice storm is recommended. To protect all the metal components of your vehicle, including the A/C.
Physical Damage
The impact from an accident can cause some system damage. Sometimes this type of damage is major. Therefore, it is advisable to have the vehicle inspected after any accident or if you experienced rough riding conditions to ensure no damage has been done to any vehicle system or part, including the air conditioning system.
No matter the cause, Detecting an A/C leak on time is vital. If you wait too long from the initial point of malfunction, additional damage may occur. Most small leaks are not visible to the naked eye, and FJC leak detection tools, dyes and equipment may be required to help you find them. A visual oily/dirty residue may detect larger leaks from the place that the A/C oil has escaped the system.
How long do car AC compressors last?
The average car AC compressor lifespan is8-10 years. Like any other part of the car, it experiences wear and tear from continuous use. However, its deterioration is usually slow and gradual. Hence, its ability to serve longer than most car components.
Car AC compressors are designed to last the car’s lifetime, estimated to be around 200,000 miles. Electric vehicles are known to last even longer – up to 300,000 miles or 15 years
Cars that are well maintained can last even longer. Most AC compressors should last 8 years and even more without going bad. This is especially if the vehicle is well-maintained throughout its lifetime.
How To Fix AC Leaks
Before fixing the leak you will need to find the source. You can use the methods below to find the leak;
A Visual Inspection
Check the refrigerant lines, condenser, and compressor to find any PEG oil or refrigerant residue. It is an effective method in case of a slow leak.
Soap Solution
Fill up a water spray bottle with a thick soap solution. Charge the AC system fully and spray the liquid on all the components. Bubbles will form if there is a rupture. This technique works well except for detecting a chink on the evaporator or compressor front seal.
Black Light
Some refrigerants are pre-mixed with a UV dye that shows up under black light. However, it won’t work if there is a leak in the front seal or evaporator.
Use a Sniffer
A sniffer is a device used to find car air conditioning leak. It detects the chemical components of the refrigerant. However, the AC system should be clean and the testing should be done in a closed area. The device is sensitive to dirt and air and these elements can tamper with the readings.
Steps To Fix the AC Leak
Apply A Super Seal
The sealant is an inexpensive, quick-fix way to seal small leaks in the air conditioning system. You can find the R-134a Super Seal in almost any auto parts stores.
- Kick off the engine and turn the knobs of the AC and fan to the maximum.
- Attach a hose to the Super Seal can and connect the hose coupler to the low-pressure port.
- After transferring the liquid, refill the system with R-134a refrigerant.
- Run the AC for at least 15 minutes to allow the Super Seal to spread across the system.
For Evaporator Leaks;
No Super Seal can fix any evaporator leak. You have to either repair it or replace it altogether. You can cut and crimp the tube to fix pinhole size ruptures. A bit of soldering can help in this regard.
When the puncture(s) is bigger, replacing the evaporator with a new one is the only solution. You have to remove the dashboard to set the evaporator up. You also need to vacuum the system before recharging it.
For Refrigerant leaks;
To seal a leak, the refrigerant must first be removed from the A/C system, a process called evacuation. Following the repair of the leak, the refrigerant must then be replaced or recharged. This at a service station ranges from $250 to $400.
If taking the car in for repair isn’t an option, another alternative is to repair leak points in the condenser, evaporator, connection hoses, gaskets, and o-rings with Red Angel A/C Refrigerant Stop Leak.
A bottle costs around $37.95 and contains 4.5 ounces of R-134a refrigerant plus a stop leak. Red Angel A/C Refrigerant Stop Leak is specially formulated to repair leak points without solid or particulate matter that can clog the system.
How to use Red Angel A/C Refrigerant Stop Leak;
- Locate the A/C low-side service port between the evaporator and compressor.
- It may also be found on the larger-diameter A/C line. It looks like a port accepting the coupler attached to the product container.
- Start the engine and turn the air conditioning up.
- Shake the can well and connect it to the low-side service port.
- Depress the top of the can to dispense the product for 3-5 minutes until the can is empty.
Safety Warning
The contents of Red Angel A/C Refrigerant Stop Leak are toxic, so avoid inhalation or contact with skin. In addition, this product only works on R134a refrigerant, and it is not designed to stop the loss of more than a pound daily, as that suggests a larger leak.
Note: Red Angel A/C Refrigerant Stop Leak is not designed for compressor leaks. The compressor must be replaced if it leaks, at a wide range of costs. For a common vehicle like a Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla, an after-market compressor costs about $200, with another $200-$300 for labor at a mechanic’s shop.
A dealership often charges more for labor, and these costs escalate if the vehicle is larger or less common. In either case, the refrigerant must be emptied from the system and replaced the repair. That generally adds another $150 or so.
Is it safe to drive with a bad ac compressor?
Most of the time, yes. It’ll be hot, but your car will run and still be safe to drive. The scenario when you should not drive a car with a bad AC compressor is if the clutch or pulley is damaged, as this could break or de-route the serpentine belt and leave you stranded.
If you suspect a bad clutch bearing or pulley, locate the compressor while the engine is running and observe the front pulley/clutch where the belt runs. This is a concern if you hear any grinding or noises coming from this area. Then, stop the engine, and if possible, check the front of the pulley for any side-to-side motion, slop, or play, cautioning that the engine is hot.
If you hear noise or observe any slop or play in this pulley, the clutch is likely bad. However, if the clutch’s pulley is still functioning properly, driving your vehicle is safe until replacement or AC diagnosis is performed.
When should you replace a faulty AC compressor?
You should replace your AC compressor if you notice any of the issues below;
Poor Airflow
Upon cranking up the AC, if you notice a weak airflow from the blowers and no or low cooling, this is the most visible sign that your AC needs repairs.
Reason: it may be due to a lack of refrigerant, a clogged expansion tube or refrigerant charging hose, a broken compressor, a broken blower motor, a damaged condenser or evaporator, or a failed fuse or switch. This symptom may need small maintenance or a major repair, depending on what’s causing it.
Loud Noise while the AC is on
Loud noises when the AC is switched on is another potential symptom of a failing AC.
Reason: A Faulty AC Compressor. Like other accessories driven by the engine’s belts, the AC compressor has several interior components and uses a sealed bearing to turn. If any interior parts break, or the compressor’s internal bearings fail or seize, then all sorts of noises can be produced.
Foul odor in the cabin
This is probably one of the most repulsive things ever caused by a failed AC. When you enter your car and get a whiff of musty, pungent, moldy smell.
Reason: Your air filter may be dirty or worn. You need to have this cleaned, or perhaps a replacement is necessary. Regular changing of air cabin filters will help prevent long-term damage to your air conditioning system, and it will also help reduce your fuel consumption.
Bad odors
This may also be caused by a moody evaporator case or air vent. This can put your health at risk because mold can cause an allergic reaction in some people. Regular cleaning the evaporator case and the air vent will help fix this issue.
There is water inside the cabin
When you park your car after a drive with the AC on, you should check to see if there is a puddle of water underneath the car. That’s normal and a sign of a completely healthy AC system. But when you see water inside the cabin, that is when the trouble begins.
Reason: The condensed water from the evaporator needs to drain out, but due to a clogged drain hose, it seeps into the cabin. It is advised to get the car to a garage as soon as possible as water inside can cause significant damage to the vehicle’s electrical system and even pose a shock hazard.
AC starts to cool; then it suddenly gets warm
This is the most common complaint we’ve heard from our customer who comes in for AC repairs. When you turn on the AC, it’s all well for a few minutes after which, you start feeling warm air blowing from the vents.
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Reason: It may be caused by a clogged expansion valve that blocks the refrigerant from flowing into the evaporator. This may also be a cause of a damaged compressor clutch that prevents the compressor to maintain the correct pressure. Or it may also be a sign of a blown a fuse or leaks.
Burning Smell from the AC
When you switch on the AC, you get a sharp, burning smell.
Reason: Chances are the wirings of your compressor are burnt or overheated. Damaged compressor wirings prevent the vehicle’s air conditioning system from functioning properly. This will need a complete wiring replacement immediately to avoid electrical issues.
You switch on the AC, and nothing happens
You press the AC button; the blower throws air, not cold air. Reason: The compressor clutch is not moving. The compressor’s clutch allows the pulley to engage and disengage from engine power so that the compressor is only turning when needed. However, the clutch can seize, which permanently keeps the compressor activated; or it can break, which means the compressor will not be able to receive engine power.
Car air conditioner compressor repair cost
The average cost for an AC compressor replacement is between $500 and $700 depending on the particular car. The labor costs alone are estimated to be just over $200.
An AC compressor change can be complex based on the parts needed to repair properly. This can vary quite a bit based on the vehicle you drive, and where the compressor is situated on the engine. Besides the compressor, there are other parts that should always be replaced at the same time the compressor is being serviced.
If your compressor suffered internal failure, the entire AC system’s lines and components will need to be properly flushed out of contaminants. Failure to do this is a guaranteed-ticket for another failed compressor, as these same contaminants will damage the new one.
In general, keep in mind the following parts, which should be changed when doing a compressor:
- The complete AC compressor assembly
- All necessary seals to hook up the AC lines
- Accumulator or receiver drier
- Orifice Tube (if equipped)
If you are mechanically-inclined, you can potentially avoid all labor costs by replacing the compressor yourself. Just be sure that you research the other components listed above, and their replacement as well. It’s worth noting that this job is somewhat complicated, and probably not a good choice for new DIYers. You’ll need specialized tools like a vacuum pump and a set of manifold gauges to do the job correctly.
If your AC clutch has failed, these can many times be replaced on their own without swapping the compressor but require special tools and procedures to swap out properly. Many times, the entire compressor is more cost-effective to replace.
Generally speaking, to have a shop properly change an AC compressor and related components, flush, and re-fill the AC system will run between $750 – 1500.00. Depending on the model and cost of the parts in general, this cost could be even higher.
To DIY this project, the cost of parts, flush, and refrigerant will generally run between $350.00 – 650.00. Keep in mind that when dealing with air conditioning, having the system properly charged by a professional is a good practice to ensure the system is properly charged and functioning.