When your car stalls while driving, it can be quite a terrifying experience especially if it happens in moving traffic. As the word states stalling means to stop running/. In cars, stalling means the engine stops at a time you don’t expect it to a compared to when it stops when you turn off the engine.
Car stalling essentially happens when the engine isn’t producing enough power for it to move. And contrary to popular belief car stalling happens to experienced drivers just as much as it happens to new drivers.
Car stalling is more common in manual transmission vehicles as compared to automatic transmission vehicles. In a manual transmission vehicle, stalling happens when setting off or coming to a stop.
Why Does the Car Stalling Problem Occur?
Slowing down a manual car requires the engagement of the clutch, which locks the rpm of the engine and the wheel. The RMP ratio depends on the gear locked in the transmission.
When the car is about to stop, the wheel speed drops and closes to the car stalling limit. The engine will start to stall at this point as it has to struggle against the pumping loss and the resistance of the wheels and the drivetrain. When the car goes slower than that RPM limit, the engine stalls and fails to generate any power.
A fully engaged clutch works as a bridge between the engine and transmission (and with the components of the drivetrain too). So, when the engine spins, it affects the wheels, axle, and transmission. If one component of this chain stops working, it will stall every other part connected to it unless the clutch is engaged.
When you try to stop the car with an engaged clutch, the car will stop because the engine’s RPM will drop below the required speed limit.
Common Reasons Your Car Stalls
Lack of Fuel
Your car’s engine needs fuel for it to run effectively and a lack of it will mean your engine will stall or not start at all. When you run your car low on fuel regularly it can lead to a clogged fuel filter where the debris and dirt get sucked from the bottom of the fuel tank into the filter and this means that even if you have enough fuel it won’t filter through to your car’s engine as it should and your car can stall.
Your car’s fuel filter rests in the fuel line and works by screening out harmful particles like dirt, dust, debris, and rust before they damage your injectors so it is important to not let your car run low on fuel all of the time.
Fuel Mixture
When you are using poor quality fuel your car’s engine’s combustion process won’t be efficient. If the fuel pump isn’t supplying enough quality fuel to the engine, or if the air/fuel mixture is too lean then your car’s engine won’t produce enough combustion in the power cycle to stay running and will end up stalling.
If you make the mistake of filling your car with the wrong fuel type then it will stall the car and often damage the engine. If you realize you have put the wrong fuel in your car, then don’t try to start it. Call your local garage to come out and drain the tank for you. Starting your car will result in the incorrect fuel travelling around your car’s engine and its components causing damage that will be costly to repair.
Faulty Fuel Pump
Without enough fuel pressure, your car will not run reliably and will often stall. Even if you have low fuel pressure, your car can sometimes run normally on level ground but as soon as you drive up a hill your car will stall as there isn’t enough pressure to push the fuel through the system of the car and into the fuel injectors.
Faulty Alternator
The alternator in your car provides power to the spark plugs which ignite the fuel in your engine making the car drive/move. When the alternator is faulty it can mean there isn’t enough power in the spark plugs to keep your engine running, which can cause it to stall for no apparent reason, either whilst you are driving or when you try to start your car.
Faulty EGR Valve
When the EGR valve in your car is clogged or dirty which they are prone to, it won’t function properly causing many issues including your car stalling when driving, stalling when at a standstill, resulting in poor fuel efficiency and emitting a strong smell of fuel due to excess hydrocarbons which will also result in a failing emission test during an MOT.
Battery Problems
When your battery is not providing enough power your car’s alternator has to work harder to keep the engine running. When the alternator overworks it will put stress on your car’s engine and this is a reason for it stalling.
Air Filter Problems
Your car’s engine needs air to breathe and not having enough air will lead to it stalling, therefore, a clean air filter is vital for a reliable and efficient running car. Your car’s air filter needs to be clean to provide your car’s engine with clean air for it to function properly. Your car’s air filter removes contaminants including; dirt, pollen, dust, leaves, and any other debris before they cause harm to your car’s engine and its components. All car’s air filters become clogged over time which is why it is important to have your car serviced regularly and your air filters changed so they allow enough clean air to pass through your car’s engine.
Air filters normally last around 2-3 years and other signs of them needing to be changed are poor fuel economy, your car misfiring, strange engine noises and in newer cars, a dashboard warning light will advise you of this.
A reputable and professional garage can easily check if you need new air filters by performing a fuel pressure test on your vehicle.
Low Fuel Pressure
Without enough fuel pressure, your car will not run reliably and will often stall or not start intermittently. If you have low fuel pressure your car will often run as normal on a level road but as soon as you drive uphill your car is likely to stall as there isn’t enough pressure to push the fuel through your car’s system and into the engine. You can try adding some fuel injector cleaner to your fuel tank, however, it’s always best to get a reliable and trusted garage to check what is going in so no further damage is made to your cars engine system and components.
Clutch Problems
Manual cars are more likely to stall because of the clutch. If you don’t engage the clutch properly or switch into neutral gear when stopping then your car’s engine will likely stall. If there is a problem with your clutch then your car is likely to stall.
Signs of a faulty or failing clutch
- Burning Smell
- Revving & Acceleration are not right
- The clutch pedal feels loose or stiff
- Strange clutch noises
Changing gear or getting your car into gear Is difficult. If you’re able to push your clutch pedal down, but actually shifting into gear is difficult, it can be due to low hydraulic fluid levels
Coolant Sensor
If the coolant temperature sensor is faulty and tells your car’s engine computer that the car is all warmed up when it’s not, the computer might then reduce the amount of fuel being pushed into the cylinders, which can cause a cold engine to stall.
Ignition Issues
When you put the key in or press your car to start and turn it on the battery sends a low amount of electricity to the spark plugs. This ignites the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chambers, causing a controlled explosion that moves the pistons and when these are in motion the alternator kicks in to keep your car’s engine running. If you have ignition problems then your car may spark and start but then stall.
What Does a Car Stalling Feel Like?
When your car stalls, it means the engine has died. In some cases, your car engine can even stop running while you’re driving. Stalling can be accidental but it also happens when the driver forgets to depress the clutch and/or change to neutral while coming to a stop.
What Happens When Your Car Stalls?
- If the engine quits while you’re driving; The car will first lose power steering and then power brakes. The first course of action should be to apply the foot brake and steer gradually over to the side of the road. Then, turn on your hazard lights and try to restart your car. If you can’t restart it, call an auto mechanic or friend with jumper cables for help. If the jumper cables don’t do the trick in rebooting your stalled engine, you may be looking at another problem that requires repair work.
- If your engine stalls while your car is at an idle speed; you might not be able to steer it to the side of the road. If this happens, turn on your hazard lights and call either the police or roadside assistance to help you safely get your car out of the road. Be sure not to get out of your car and try to push it while you’re in traffic.
Stalling in Manual vs Automatic Transmission Vehicles
If you have a manual transmission, your car is more likely to stall. Why? Because with a stick shift, it’s all about that clutch. If you forget to engage the clutch or switch into the neutral gear when stopping, you can cause the engine to stall.
Manual Car Stalling – Reasons and Solutions
Driving a manual car has some unique perks. But, there are some problems too and car stalling issue is one of them. Every engine has an RPM (a.k.a. stalling speed) where it does not have enough power to overcome the pumping loss caused at the time of switching the engine on.
The speed limit for this condition to occur varies from one model to another. However, it remains between 300 and 750 rpm for most vehicles.
Clutch Mechanism of a Manual Transmission Car
Understanding how the clutch works is a vital part of figuring out why manual transmission cars stall. The component has two solid discs and works as the connecting link between the engine and the gearbox.
It links the engine’s output to the transmission’s input shaft by creating a firm lock between them at a 1:1 ratio. It means that one turn of the engine will yield one turn of the input shaft. You can disengage the clutch by depressing the pedal. It disconnects the discs from each other, allowing the engine to turn without affecting the transmission.
How to Prevent Manual Car Stalling
There are two simple ways to solve this problem;
- Depressing the Clutch – It will break the lock between the engine and the transmission. It will prevent the car from stalling since the engine will work separately even if you stay in-gear.
- Depressing and Releasing the Clutch – In this method, you will have to shift the gear to neutral after depressing the clutch. Then, you will need to release the clutch. Doing so will not break the connection between the engine and the transmission but the input shaft won’t be in touch with the output shaft or wheels because of the neutral gear. It will allow the engine to rotate without putting any impact on the transmission.
Automatic Car Stalling
While automatic car stalling is rare, an automatic car can still stall. An automatic car uses a torque converter to manage the transmission fluid which keeps your engine running when you are at a standstill and if your torque converter fails then the engine will most likely stall.
Torque converters can fail for many reasons, including dirty fluid, overheating and problems with stall speed, which is the RPM at which your torque converter shifts power from the engine to the automatic transmission. In order to check your torque converter, you might have to perform a stall-speed test.
If your automatic car is stalling, then you should take it to a reputable garage for them to check your torque converter and conduct a stall-speed test to find out what is wrong with it.
How to perform a stall-speed test;
- Find out what your car’s RPM should be, then locate your tachometer.
- Check with your car or transmission manufacturer to make sure it’s safe to run the test.
- Place immobilizers behind your wheels to prevent them from moving.
- Crank that parking brake.
- Press the foot brake all the way to the floor and start your engine.
- Change gears from park into drive. Do not take your foot off the brake.
- While pressing on the brake pedal, press the accelerator to the floor for two to three seconds.
- Keep pressing the brake pedal, and use your other foot to engage the accelerator pedal for a maximum of five seconds.
- Don’t exceed five seconds, or you risk blowing out the transmission. The RPM the engine maxes out at is the stall speed.
- Check your tachometer for the stall speed and see if it reads lower than it should be.
- If the RPM reading is lower than the specifications for your particular torque converter and engine, it means the torque converter is failing and needs to be repaired or replaced.
- If the RPM reading is too high, then your transmission is slipping and you’ll need to investigate the problem
- If you need to get a new torque converter, visit an auto shop. Or, if this whole process sounds like something you totally want to avoid, just head to a mechanic and ask them about performing a stall-speed test for you.
Note: Don’t run a stall-speed test for more than five seconds at a time. Don’t run this test on vehicles that have traction control or anti-lock brake systems. On some electronically controlled transmissions, a stall-speed test will set off your check engine light.
Why Does My Car Stall When I Stop?
If your car stalls at stops, it may be experiencing one of the issues discussed below;
Faulty Idle Air Control (IAC) Solenoid
The idle air control valve or solenoid is located on the throttle body. Your car computer uses the IAC to bypass the throttle valve to allow more air at idle.
A common problem with the IAC valve is a buildup of carbon, fuel varnish or dirt inside the valve or throttle passages. Without enough air during idle, the engine stalls. If the IAC motor has failed and stuck close, you’ll see the same symptoms. You can troubleshoot the IAC solenoid at home, if necessary.
Vacuum Leaks
Vacuum leaks are a common cause of rough idling, stalling, and other engine performance issues. Specially, engines equipped with a mass airflow (MAF) sensor are prone to stall when idling with a vacuum leak.
A vacuum leak may come from:
- PCV valve stuck open
- Brake booster faulty hose or valve
- Bad intake manifold gasket
- Faulty throttle body gasket
- EGR valve, gasket or hose
- Loose or torn air duct between the MAF sensor and throttle body
Sometimes, the check engine light will come on and the computer may store trouble codes P0171, P0174 or P0300. You may also notice a misfire.
Vacuum hoses wear out over time and cause trouble on a sensor operation. Ensure you check all vacuum hoses for wear and damage, including those connected to the different sensors in your engine.
Engine Stops When Idling Cold
Usually, when the engine stalls while idling cold, a sensor is behind the fault. You may want to check the following sensors or components:
- Manifold absolute pressure (MAP)
- Mass air flow (MAF) sensor
- Fuel pressure regulator
- Throttle position sensor
- Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor
- Intake vacuum leak
- Symptoms of a Bad EGR Valve
Ensure you check for diagnostic trouble codes. Even if your check engine light is not on, there could be a pending code that can help you find the source of the problem.
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Issues
MAF sensors often become contaminated with dirt and fail to send the correct airflow volume data to the computer.
A problem with this sensor may trigger the check engine light. You can troubleshoot the MAF sensor at home using a digital multimeter. Often, all you need is to clean the sensing element using a mass airflow sensor cleaner.
When checking the sensor, verify that there are no air leaks in the air ducts between the sensor and throttle body. Confirm the air cleaner hoses and ducts are properly connected. Unmetered air entering the engine will also lean the air-fuel mixture, causing the engine to stall at idle or while coming to a stop.
Fuel System Problems
Faulty components in the fuel system can also lead to this type of problem. For example:
- Worn or faulty fuel pump
- Clogging fuel filter
- Bad fuel pressure regulator
Usually, a clogging fuel filter will give you the first signs of trouble when driving at highway speeds. Your vehicle may lack power because the amount of fuel is not adequate. Eventually, the filter will block fuel and starve the engine at idle.
If you haven’t replaced the fuel filter at the recommended intervals suggested by the manufacturer (consult your car owner’s manual or vehicle repair manual), replace the filter.
Just as a clogging fuel filter, a worn fuel pump may not be able to maintain the adequate pressure the system requires. If too little fuel is reaching the injectors, the engine may not be able to operate properly and die during idle.
A faulty fuel pressure regulator can leak fuel as well and cut out the engine at idle.
If you suspect a problem in the fuel system, don’t replace components unless you run some tests or it’s necessary.
Bad Ignition Coils
Modern vehicle models have incorporated several ignition coils to provide the spark each cylinder needs for combustion. Some models use one coil for every two cylinders, while other use one coil per cylinder.
On this model, a bad ignition coil may cause a misfire, but may not cause the engine to stall. However, if the engine is unable to maintain the correct idle speed because a fault is affecting more than one coil, it may stall at idle.
If you’ve noticed misfires along with a stalling-at-idle condition, check the ignition coils.
Faulty EGR Valve
Common problems with the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system are a stuck EGR valve, vacuum leaks or an electrical circuit fault.
Carbon buildup tends to accumulate around the valve and intake ports. This may block the flow of exhaust gases to the intake, but it can also prevent the valve from closing, allowing a continuous flow or exhaust gases into the cylinder.
If the EGR valve sticks open, you’ll notice a rough idle, possibly misfires and stalling.
Other symptoms of an EGR valve stuck open may include:
- Rough idle at a stop light
- Check engine light on
- Fuel odor during engine operation
- Increase fuel consumption
If you haven’t checked the valve for proper operation or carbon buildup, this is a good time to test the EGR valve and remove the buildup, if necessary.
In some models, a fault in the EGR system may trigger a trouble code. Scan your computer memory for codes, even if you don’t see the check engine light on. If you don’t have a scan tool, your local auto parts store may download codes for you.
Catalytic Converter Issues
Miles of service and engine performance issues like misfires can eventually take their toll on the catalytic converter and cause your vehicle to stall while idling or coming to a stop.
A catalytic converter may become plugged or the substrate may disintegrate. This will increase exhaust backpressure and may or may not trigger the check engine light. Also, depending on your particular problem, you may become aware of these other symptoms:
- Rattling sound underneath the vehicle
- Low engine power
- Smell of rotten eggs
There are some converter tests you can do at home if you suspect a problem with it. Or you can have the catalytic converter checked at the shop, if necessary. Bear in mind that a restricted muffler may show the same symptoms.
Automatic Transmission Problems
Problems with the automatic transmission can also cause your vehicle to stall at idle. This is usually because of:
- Low transmission fluid, affecting torque converter operation.
- Torque converter problems
- Plugged transmission cooler system
If your particular transmission has a converter clutch, you may notice the engine stalls when shifting into reverse. This is usually caused by a clogged oil cooler or cooler line.
Checking for Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)
Problems in a particular engine system can also lead to a stall-at-idle condition. For example, some 2004-05 Chevy Malibu vehicles with the 2.2L engine were experiencing hesitation, stalling at idle with the engine warmed, and other driveability issues. The problem seems to be a voltage spike coming from a cooling fan that is affecting the ignition system.
Some vehicle models leave the factory with these types of problems and are reported to car dealers through technical service bulletins (TSB).
These bulletins can also help you with problems that you may not be aware of until you bring your vehicle to the shop.
Thus, a TSB can reveal problems with your particular vehicle and help you solve an issue that otherwise might be difficult or costly to find out about later on.
Why Does My Car Keep Stalling When Idling?
When your engine dies while idling, there’s a good chance that it stalled. This means the engine isn’t receiving enough air, power, or fuel. There are 6 reasons that might cause a car to stall while idling, these include the following:
Faulty Oxygen or Mass Airflow Sensor
Your vehicle is filled with different sensors. Each relays specific information to the ECM (Engine Control Module). The ECM then takes this data and regulates how the engine operates to ensure it’s running optimally.
Two of these sensors play a significant role in why a car engine stops while idling. The first is the oxygen sensor, which is located in the exhaust manifold. The second is the mass airflow sensor, which sits to the left of your engine inside the intake air duct.
The former reads the amount of air leaving your engine, and the latter measures the amount entering. The ECM uses this data to either raise or lower how much air it sends to the combustion chambers.
If either of these sensors is relaying incorrect information. Then your engine might not receive enough air, which it needs to power itself. When there’s a lack of air, it leads to a lack of power, which can cause your car to stall while idling.
How much does it cost to replace an oxygen or mass airflow sensor at a shop? An oxygen sensor will run about $200, and a mass airflow sensor, about $300.
Clogged EGR Valve
If you didn’t know, EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. As its name suggests, its purpose is to recirculate a small amount of exhaust back into the combustion chambers. It does this to decrease the temperature inside.
This works because exhaust gas is mostly carbon dioxide (C02), which is an odorless, colorless gas that doesn’t burn. Since it doesn’t burn like oxygen, it effectively lowers the temperature inside the combustion chambers.
When the EGR valve gets clogged, it may get stuck open or closed, meaning exhaust gas will continue to flow or not flow at all.
When this happens, it affects the air/fuel ratios inside the combustion chambers, which can lead to a loss of power. Not enough power, and you’ll have stalling problems while idling.
Diagnosing a clogged EGR valve, though, is a bit harder. Because a lot of the symptoms are similar to those caused by a faulty fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, or bad spark plugs. If the valve is not clogged, you can simply clean it out yourself at home.
Damaged Spark Plugs
Spark plugs are in charge of igniting the air/fuel mixture inside the combustion chamber. As you might expect, if they’re old and worn, they’re less effective at doing their job. This translates to less power for your engine, which can lead to your car stalling at idle.
There are 5 types of spark plugs currently on the market. These consist of the following:
- Copper
- Iridium
- Single Platinum
- Double Platinum
- Silver
While copper costs the least, they only last for between 10,000-20,000 miles. Iridium, silver, and double and single platinum all last for around 100,000 miles, but cost more.
Defective Idle Air Control Actuator
The purpose of the idle air control actuator is to keep the RPMs in an optimal range while the engine is idling. It does this based on input received by the ECM, which it gets from things like your mass airflow, oxygen, and fuel sensors.
If there’s an issue with the idle air control actuator, the rotational speed of your engine might fall too low. This can cause your engine to stall while idling.
The cost to replace this part varies greatly. It ranges from just over $100 to as much as $500, including both parts and labor.
Faulty Fuel Delivery System
As we mentioned earlier, there are usually three main elements that lead to a car stalling out while idling. One of these is a lack of fuel, meaning if there’s a problem in your fuel delivery system, it can result in your car dying.
Any component of the fuel delivery system can cause this. Take the fuel pump, for instance, which is in charge of delivering fuel to your engine from the gas tank.
There’s also the fuel filter, which screens out harmful debris before it reaches your engine. If it becomes clogged, not enough fuel will make it to the combustion chamber.
If you’re lucky, it’s just the fuel filter, which typically costs between $50-$150 to replace. Most last for about 2-years, so if you’re long past this, it’s likely the issue.
Malfunctioning Transmission
Just mentioning a transmission problem is likely to send chills down the spine of any car owner. Why? Because they’re very costly to work on. As far as engine stalling problems, we’re specifically talking about the torque converter. Which is basically the automatic version of a clutch.
Its purpose is to deliver power from the engine to the rest of the drivetrain. If it’s worn or damaged, it’s unable to do this effectively, which can cause your car to stall.
The issue may be caused by the solenoid which is the electromagnet part that measures and regulates fluid pressure. If this is found to be the issue, you’re only looking at a repair cost of around a few hundred dollars.
What Causes A Car To Stall While Driving?
The following are several of the most common of these reasons you car stalls when you drive;
Fuel System Issues
Any issue within a vehicle’s fuel system can lead to near-immediate stalling. Issues of this type most commonly include a loss in fuel pressure.
This condition can be caused by a failing fuel pump, severe fuel leak, or an obstruction within the fuel system itself. In any case, a lack of fuel pressure/delivery prevents an engine from achieving proper combustion.
Charging System Issues
Once a vehicle starts, engine and component operation is sustained through the delivery of an engine’s charging system voltage. The most critical component within this system is a vehicle’s alternator, which generally provides 13.5-14.5 volts under normal operation.
However, a faulty alternator can provide significantly less voltage, leading to rapid battery discharge. Such discharge can lead to vehicle stalling in short order, even with a relatively new battery.
Spark-Related Issues
A gasoline engine relies upon spark delivery to ignite the air/fuel mixture within each cylinder. If this spark suddenly ceases, engine stalling will occur as a result.
Faulty ignition coils, deteriorated distributor caps, and damaged rotor buttons are all common sources of spark loss, which have the ability to induce a stalling condition. Such issues can occur at any speed, or at idle.
Sensor Issues
Issues with certain sensors can, and will induce engine stalling. This occurs when irrational, incomplete, or incorrect data is provided to an engine’s management software.
Some of the most common sensors responsible for engine stalling include the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT), mass airflow sensor (MAF), and throttle position sensor (TPS).
Additionally, issues related to a vehicle’s throttle body or idle air control valve (IAC) can also induce a stalling condition.
Vacuum Leaks
A vacuum leak is most accurately described as the introduction of unmetered air into an engine.
Large vacuum leaks can cause a lean condition within a vehicle’s engine, meaning that fuel delivery is insufficient to match the volume of air within each combustion chamber. This, in turn, can lead to stalling at random intervals.
Problems of this nature are often most noticeable at start-up in colder weather, as a richer fuel mixture is required for operation.
Lockup Of Belt-Driven Accessories
The sudden failure of belt-driven accessories can also lead to vehicle stalling. When such components, such as an A/C compressor or power steering pump lock up, resistance is placed upon an engine’s drive belt.
If the belt itself does not snap, excessive resistance will also be placed upon the engine’s crank pulley. This, in turn, can smother an engine out, putting it into a stall in the process.
Timing Issues
The vast majority of today’s internal combustion engines feature timing chains or timing belts. These belts/chains synchronize the timing between the engine’s crankshaft and top-end components.
If a timing chain or belt were to stretch or break, an engine’s timing can shift, causing a stall. In the most extreme cases, the breakage of a timing belt or chain can lead to severe internal engine damage.
Transmission Issues
Occasionally, severe transmission issues can result in engine stalling. Failures of this type put excess strain on an engine, essentially bogging it down as a result.
Clutch-related problems (manual) and torque convertor issues (automatic) tend to be among the most common of these failures. In any event, problems of this nature are likely to worsen with time.
Why Does My Car Stall When Accelerating?
Everything from electrical to fuel delivery to vacuum system issues can all cause a rough-running, stalling vehicle.
Common reasons for this to happen:
Below are some of the more common causes that would make your car stall or stumble when you attempt to accelerate.
Faulty ignition components: The ignition coil pulls power from the battery and delivers it to the spark plugs, which ignites the fuel and makes the engine run. The car will display a number of symptoms as the ignition system wears.
Misfiring is one of the first symptoms you will see as a symptom of incomplete combustion due to improperly firing ignition components. As the situation progresses you will have trouble starting the vehicle and your fuel economy will drop dramatically. A flashing “Check Engine” light may be associated with this issue.
Finally, as the ignition system reaches the end of its life, your car will misfire and start to stall. Expect the engine to sputter, cough, and jerk, especially at higher speeds. Irregular sparking will cause the car to stall and it may shut off completely when you bring the car to a stop.
Faulty fuel pump: The fuel pump moves fuel from the gas tank to the engine. If the fuel pump is malfunctioning, the engine will be getting less fuel than necessary, which will lead to performance issues, and ultimately cause the vehicle not to start.
One of the first signs of a failing fuel pump is hesitation under acceleration. As the problem progresses, the car will lose power when idling, and eventually, it may shut down completely.
Bad fuel filter: A fuel filter strains the fuel before it reaches the engine, which protects the fuel injectors. They are essential to a well-running engine and require regular replacement. If the fuel filter is not replaced at the recommended intervals, the performance and fuel economy of the engine may suffer dramatically.
A failing fuel filter may exhibit similar symptoms to a failing fuel pump. Power loss, especially on acceleration, may be the first sign. As flow continues to be impeded, the fuel filter may ultimately lead to a no-start condition, as fuel can no longer get to the engine.
Vacuum leaks: The engine of a car is basically a large air pump. Air is drawn into the cylinders and mixes with fuel that is compressed and ignited. The air is drawn in through a butterfly valve, which creates a vacuum. The vacuum is used to power a number of auxiliary devices.
The tiniest of leaks can cause engine performance problems. Expect a rough or too-fast idle speed. Misfiring or hesitation during acceleration is another common issue with vacuum leaks. As the leak gets worse, the car will begin to stall. A hissing sound and an illuminated “Check Engine” light will typically also be observed.
Bad electrical connections: Modern cars have an extensive electrical system, and a bad connection (or bad ground) can cause a number of issues. Dim or flickering lights can be a sign, as well as difficulty starting the car. The car will make a clicking noise, much like a dead battery or loose battery cable.
Dirty or defective idle control valve: The idle control valve controls the amount of air that goes into the engine, which allows the computer to maintain the proper engine speed.
When an idle control valve becomes contaminated or stuck, it may lead to an unsteady and rough idle. The car will stall if the valve is too clogged or when it finally fails. If, while holding the accelerator pedal down, a small amount of pressure keeps the car running at a stop, the idle control valve may require attention. In most late model cars, this problem will usually trigger the Check Engine light.
Can You Predict Car Stalling Before It Happens?
Car jerking is actually a precursor to car stalling. If you notice that your car jerks while you’re accelerating, this is an issue that you shouldn’t ignore. A jerking car is often a sign that your car will develop other problems if you don’t address this issue.
Focus on the issues causing the car to jerk before you get to a point of stalling;
1. Dirty Fuel Injectors
Dirty fuel injectors are among the most common reasons for why an accelerator becomes jerky. The dirty injector leads to your car losing power when you attempt to accelerate while at a stop and when you try to drive at a consistent speed. This is the result of an engine misfire.
2. Blockages
There might be a blockage that is preventing your car from receiving the fuel it needs to accelerate. Air mixes with fuel to create a spray that powers your engine. If anything interrupts this, your car might struggle to accelerate.
3. Worn Out Spark Plugs
Your spark plugs might be worn out and unable to properly ignite the fuel in the piston fast enough. This can lead to your car not accelerating as quickly. Fortunately, spark plugs are not expensive to repair and replace.
4. Dirty Air Filters
The air filter plays an important role in keeping pollutants away from your engine. However, with time, these pollutants can build up and cause your car to not accelerate properly. You can simply remove and wipe off the air filters before putting them back in place, or install new air filters.
5. Damaged Cylinders
If your engine cylinders are damaged, this will affect the ability of your engine to work properly and will lead to an engine misfire. You will want to notify a mechanic of this issue so that the cylinders can be repaired or replaced. Otherwise, you can quickly ruin your engine.
6. Blocked Catalytic Converters
Your catalytic converter might be suffering from a blockage. The air-fuel mixture passing through your catalytic converter can become too rich and this can lead to a blockage. This often leads to a car jerking when the motorist presses the gas. You may be able to clear it out with a good catalytic converter cleaner. Otherwise, you’ll need help from a mechanic.
7. Damaged Gas Lines
Gas flows throughout your engine via gas lines. However, if there is something wrong with a gas line, this can cause your car to experience a loss of pressure, which can cause the car to jerk forward. In extreme cases, a malfunctioning fuel line might even cause your engine to catch on fire. Check the fuel line to make sure it doesn’t have any holes.
8. Damaged Acceleration Cables
The acceleration cable might be damaged. This cable is the link between your gas cable and the engine throttle plate. Pressing the gas pedal causes the cable to pull the throttle open, allowing your car to accelerate.
9. Defective Carburetors
The carburetor is responsible for controlling how much fuel and air are mixed together before it enters the engine. When the carburetor is damaged, this will not only cause your car to jerk when accelerating but will also lead to poor performance in general.
10. Moisture on the Distributor Cap
If it’s snowy outside, you might have a jerky acceleration due to moisture accumulating on the distributor cap. This typically occurs during the winter when you park your car outside. This can be avoided by parking your car in a warmer spot.
Why Does My Car Stall When Braking?
There are several reasons why the engine may stall when the brake pedal is pressed. Besides the inconvenience it makes, this issue can indicate a problem in the braking system which you need to consider. So, it’s best not to drive the car in this state until you fix the problem.
Engine stalling when braking was more common on cars that had a carburetor, but this problem may also be present on injection engines. Below are some reason why your car stalls when you brake;
Faulty vacuum brake booster
The vacuum brake booster is located between the pedal and the main brake cylinder. Its role is to relieve the force that the driver creates when pressing the brake pedal. The vacuum brake booster is connected to the intake manifold through a vacuum hose. In its design, the vacuum brake booster includes besides other elements a membrane. If this membrane is damaged, then this is one of the reasons why the car stalls when braking.
If it’s damaged, the membrane will not have time to create the vacuum, and because of that, part of the air in the brake system enters the fuel mixture. This causes the engine to stall when pressing the brake pedal.
If the vacuum amplifier fails, we recommend you change it, although it can be repaired, it is not advisable.
How to check the vacuum brake booster;
Fortunately, there are two easy ways to check if the vacuum brake booster hose is damaged.
- Stop the engine and press and release the brake pedal several times. At first, the pedal stroke will be softer but after pressing several times, it will become harder. Keep the pedal in the lower position and start the engine. If after starting the engine, the brake pedal stroke becomes softer again, then there is no problem with the vacuum hose. But if it still remains still, then you need a detailed check.
- After the engine has been running for some time, press the brake pedal and then stop the car. Keep the brake pedal pressed for about 20-30 seconds. If during this time the pedal does not resist the foot, then everything is functioning properly with the vacuum brake booster.
Defective vacuum brake booster hose
Another cause of why the car may stall when braking is a depressurization of the hose that connects the vacuum brake booster and the intake manifold. If this hose is damaged, then extra air will enter, leading to an incorrect air-fuel mixture that causes the engine to stall while pressing sharply on the brake pedal.
You can check this hose by detaching it from the vacuum booster. Next, start the engine and pinch the hole of the removed hose with your finger. If it is sealed, the engine will automatically increase RPMs, and after removing the finger, it will lower them.
If the hose passes air through, the engine will run at constant speed while performing the above method.
Check also the valve that is installed at the end of the hose where it connects to the amplifier. It is important that through the valve air is not leaked, otherwise, it will have the above symptoms.
The easiest way to detect a malfunction of the vacuum cleaner is by touching it. If it passes air, then the brake pedal will work very hard, and to press it you need more effort to press it.
The malfunction of the vacuum brake booster hose can also create a safety problem because pressing the brake pedal will require more effort, and will increase the stopping distance. Thus it’s best to resolve this issue fast.
Faulty fuel pump or fuel filter
When braking the car’s Electronic Control Unit will give the command to not supply the engine with fuel. If a fuel pump is bad and has problems with the supply or the fuel filter clogged then the gas pump does not have enough power to supply or doesn’t supply the required amount of fuel to the engine, which causes loss of traction.
You can check the pressure in the fuel line using a pressure gauge. You will find the pressure values in the car’s manual. If you however suspect that the fuel filter is bad, you will have to change it to be sure.
Another less common reason why the car stalls when you brake is bad high-voltage wires. You should also check the quality of the negative contact wire from the battery, if the battery has poor contact, there is a good chance that the engine stalls when you brake suddenly.
Failing idle speed sensor
The role of the idle speed sensor is to put the engine to idle and maintain its speed. If this sensor fails then the engine speed will begin to float and the engine will eventually stall. You should see the floating engine RPM at idle when you push the accelerator pedal.
Checking the sensor can be done with a good multimeter tester to check the resistance of the internal windings of the sensor. Depending on the design, you need to connect to different contacts, look into the car manual to see if you find the correct values to see if those match yours. If the idle speed sensor is faulty, you need to replace it with another sensor
Failing Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
Errors in the operation of the ECU are also a cause for this car stalling problem, this can be hard to find so it’s best to check the car in an authorized car workshop with a computer diagnosis.
Engine with LPG stalls when braking
You have a car with an older model of LPG gas without its own ECU then you may have an incorrectly configured gearbox. This happens at high speeds when you suddenly press the brake pedal, the throttle is closed, the flow of oncoming air depletes the mixture.
As a result, the vacuum mechanism of the gas reducer delivers a small dose of gas at idle, and the oncoming airflow impoverishes it even more. Fixing this issue stands in reconfiguring the gearbox to run at idle so that the system delivers more gas.
Other reasons for cars with LPG for the problem above, represents a clogged filter on the electric valve. Although not all LPG systems have one of these filters, to fix the problem, you need to clean the filter or replace it. Otherwise, the counter-flow of air can also make the mixture poor.
Note: Car stalling when braking is mainly cause by the vacuum brake booster and its hose. So check these two parts. If they are OK, I would advise you to go to a car workshop and have a complete check for your car.
Why Is My Car Stalling When I Put It In Drive?
If the charge drops too low, the spark plugs will fail to fire, and your cylinders will fail to ignite. If your cylinders aren’t properly igniting, your engine may stall. And yes, this can even occur as you are roaring down the highway. It can happen if the battery’s cells are still fully charged. Dirty or corroded contacts can even cause it.
Thankfully, a battery is easy to diagnose. You can identify corrosion and dirt with a simple visual inspection. You can test the charge with a multimeter, an affordable tool available at nearly any hardware store. And If you don’t know how to use one, don’t worry. Any certified mechanic will surely have one on hand and can test your battery for you, many times free of charge.
Clogged Air Filter
Proper engine function requires an appropriate fuel-air mixture inside the cylinder. Too little fuel and combustion will be weak, not providing enough force. Too little air and there isn’t enough oxygen for full combustion, which will foul your engine. Continue restricting the airflow, and the engine stops running altogether.
An air filter is designed to keep dirt and debris out of your engine. However, like all things on the road, it will eventually get dirty. If you’re following your manufacturer’s recommendations on regular filter changes, you shouldn’t normally have a problem.
That said, extreme environmental conditions can clog your air filter prematurely, a common issue in areas with frequent wildfires. Smoke particles can rapidly clog your filter, which can at times cause engine stalling. If you’re dealing with unusually poor air quality, it’s best practice to have a mechanic check your filter frequently to ensure it is clean and in proper working order.
Worn Out Timing Belt
Most internal combustion engines use a timing belt or timing chain to synchronize the motor’s operation. Like other automobile components, timing belts and chains don’t last forever, and they eventually wear out and need to be replaced.
A bad belt or chain can cause stalling because they can skip one or more teeth during rotation. This desynchronizes different parts of the engine and causes irregularities in operation, often causing the vehicle to seize.
A bad timing belt is a cause for concern for other reasons, as well. When an engine seizes, the physical shock can severely damage the camshaft and other expensive parts of your vehicle.
Electrical Problem
There aren’t many electrical systems in older engines, which means that there are a limited number of potential failure points. To see if you perhaps have an electrical issue, start by checking your spark plug wires and distributor, or see if the wiring harness is shorted out to the frame.
Damaged or corroded wiring can be a possible cause of trouble in modern vehicles as well. Many newer cars are packed with all kinds of electrical components that control numerous motor functions.
One example is the Transmission Control Module (TCM). The TCM is a computer on an automatic transmission vehicle that determines when to shift from one gear to another. If the TCM shifts into too high or too low of a gear, it can cause the engine to stall. This is analogous to stalling out a manual transmission vehicle by trying to start in third gear.
The Engine Isn’t Getting Fuel
This happens when there’s not enough fuel getting into the cylinders. the most common cause of failure is the fuel pump, which is responsible for transporting fuel from your gas tank to the motor. If the pump fails, nothing happens when you press the gas pedal.
There can be other potential causes for a fuel shortage, as well. For example, the fuel line may have sprung a leak, or the fuel filter may be clogged. Unless you’re a reasonably confident home mechanic, you’ll want to have these issues checked out by a qualified professional as soon as possible.
One last possible issue could be over-fueling. In the case of over-fueling, the fuel injectors are pushing too much gas into the cylinders. A clogged air filter usually causes this problem because a lack of oxygen fails to produce full combustion.
Failing Torque Converter
Automatic transmission vehicles need to manage their level and pressure of transmission fluid when the car is idling. They do this with a component called a torque converter. When this converter fails, your engine will stall.
There are several potential causes of torque converter failure. It may have been damaged by overheating or by dirty automatic transmission fluid. They can also be damaged if the engine’s computers fail and attempt to engage the transmission at too low or too high an RPM level. This RPM level is known as the engine’s “stall speed” and can be tested by any certified mechanic.
How to Stop a Stalling Car
As you now know from the point discussed above, there are two scenarios in which you may find you stall your car, each with a different approach to stop your car from stalling.
When coming to a standstill:
- Gently press the brake pedal to begin slowing your car
- Then depress the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch
- If you are in first gear, depress the clutch followed by the brake
- Once the car has come to a standstill depress the clutch once again and put the car into first gear before pulling away again
When pulling away:
- Depress the clutch pedal with your left foot
- Select first gear
- Gently put pressure on the accelerator until revs reach around 1500
- Slowly lift pressure from the clutch pedal until you find the biting point
- When you are ready release the handbrake, continue slowly lifting the clutch pedal and putting pressure on the accelerator
- As the car starts moving slowly lift pressure completely from the clutch, keeping your right foot steady on the accelerator
What to do if you stall your car?
Do this if you experience car stalling at stop light. the first thing you should do is try not to panic. Keep your cool and ensure you get moving as quickly as possible. Think of a stall as a reset and do the following;
- Apply your handbrake
- Put your car into neutral and restart the engine
- Put your foot back on the clutch and put your car into first gear
- Check your mirrors and pull away again once it is safe to do so
Does Stalling a Manual Transmission Car Damage It?
No. While stalling a manual transmission is certainly not ideal, it is unlikely to cause any notable damage unless done repeatedly over the course of several years. Granted, repeated stalling will cause components of your car to wear and tear. But it will not be anything beyond the driveline that is already approaching the point of failure. However, most drivers will master the use of a manual transmission far before any damage can be sustained.